repotting bonsai

Bonsai Repotting – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #04

Hello my name is Mark D’Cruz of Ma-Ke Bonsai and with me is Jonny Gires. Today we’re going to demonstrate how to repot a bonsai (Ligistrum sinense) We have chosen a Turquoise blue pot to replace the last pot. I’m going to talk a bit about the tools we are going to use. To start off with we have a spatula to help firm down the bonsai soil we then have a jin plier and wire cutter the wire cutter is to help with remove wires that bind the tree into the pot and to replace it with new wire ties finally tie the bonsai into the pot… the sickle is very important tool because more often than not you have to the bonsai out of the pot then we have two little brushes or rather three little brushes that help us with the tidiness and cleanliness of the pot. the the plastic brushes used to clean the bark, the metal brush is use to clean the pot the coco brush is used to tidy up the surface of the pot once we have repotting it and here we have two set of scissors to help us with cutting the roots We have a root cutter this one to cut the finer roots they are very, very sharp and very strong umm..

Here we have a root cutter to cut off heavier roots within the bonsai and one of the most important tools as far as we are concerned is… what we call a bidder, its just a piece of metal some thing like a metal chopstick the chopstick that helps us with the clearing the top of the root surface the pot has a curved surface surface so it the site has got in between the the soil has got under the lip of the pot so we cannot just pull it out off the pot so we are going to going to do is cut off the bonsai from the pot this requires a bit of strenght and we are using a sickle to help us with the cutting of the soil if the root-ball is not coming out use a chop stick to help prise it out you can see the roots are massed up and it definitely needs to be repotted. as you can see there’s a substantial amount of roots, some we have already removed from the root-ball but we still have a bit more to remove cut away the roots that were removed by the sickle so first of all Johnny is going to start by clearing of the soil Johnny is going to clean the moss that is on the bark the soft nylon brush ensures the bark is not damaged but it removes all the moss that may have collected Johnny is going to remove half to 1 cm of soils from the bottom so any excessively long root are removed and cut away so we have a clean root ball at the bottom Next thing Johnny is going to do is cut out the excess root ball to fit the new pot Use the dibber to mark all round the root-ball, making sure it is centered in the pot and make sure the bonsai is centered in the pot and now its fits absolutely comfortably in the pot with enough room to accommodate the new soil For the repotting we use a special bonsai mix which in this case is a mixture of Akadama and Pumice the grain size is between 3mm and 6mm and as you can see it is a very granular mixture Place a thin layer of mix at the bottom of the pot place the bonsai on it and jiggle around till you get it in the centre of the pot the trunk has to be absolutely vertical in all directions vertical from the front and vertical from the side fill more soil in to the pot and use a rubber mallet to settle the soil into the pot this is a rubber mallet that has been softened by boiling in water we need to ensure that the tree is firmly in the pot we test by moving the trunk, if the pot and trunk move together we know the tree is firmly in the pot.

the next step is to use the spatula to firm the soil in moving all around the the pot The final step is to bind the tree into the pot with the wire is bound from one end to the other end and tightened with the jin pliers twisting it clockwise while binding the wires ensure that that they are not tied in the middle of the pot but on the far extremes of the pot as we we’ve done these two, you then cut of any excess what making sure that there is not much of a tail left Johnny then water the pot by giving it a dunking in a tub of water pot rim stays just above the surface of the water and the water rises into the pot from below and you should soon see it at the top of the pot lift the pot up and let excess water drain out Last step in in repotting is to cover the surface with with a thin layer of dried sphagnum moss the sphagnum moss protects surface root of the bonsai by not letting the pot do it too fast the last bit to do, is to ensure that the pot is cleaned up and polished Here we have Camellia Oil and an emery rubber that helps with cleaning up and finishing off the pot and that’s how we Repot A Bonsai Tree

How to Grow Orange Bonsai | Calamondin Chinese Orange | Bonsai Trees for Beginners //GREEN PLANTS

Growing orange bonsai from air layering these are already prepared orange tree air layerings Cut the air layers, from the bottom of the polyethylene remove the polyethylene be careful do not cut the roots now place the root ball in the pot and fill it with potting soil press it gently and water it after 60 days now ready to re pot this orange plant get the tree out of the pot remove the soil this is the hand made clay pot in this pot now i’m going to repot the orange plant put the stones first layer these stones will provide better drainage to the plant add the bonsai soil fill the soil in half of the pot place the tree in soil place the moss on top of the soil add the stones and cover the soil this helps to keep the soil moisture and also when you are watering to the bonsai tree the stones protect the soil and roots from damages watering to the orange bonsai tree pour the water for every two days after finished re potting

How to make bonsai Juniper Bonsai from Nursery Stock – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #161

 Welcome to Ma-ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’ Cruz. Today, we’re going to plant juniper that Bogdan has got from a garden centre. He paid 22 pounds for this and he’s planted it in this large garden pot for a couple of years and it’s gained a nice set of roots at the bottom. It’s now ready to be bonsaied, I guess. That’s the phase that we’re looking for. We start by working on the top to find where the nebari is. We turn the tree around to find the right angle. And the nebari will help us determine the right size. On turning the tree around, it was found that these two branches were a little bit on the low side and were not required. We decided to cut them off. And it seems that they got a nice set of roots so we will save them. We wrapped them in some sphagnum moss, tied them into a little bundle ready for repotting at a later stage. Back to pruning the roots away from the top of the sawing. We expose the nebari and work away all the fine roots that are there.

The nebari is the broadest part of the trunk and that’s what we’re looking for. We have a nice big branch that flows to one side so this is going to be a semi cascade kind of tree. We have a couple of low branches which we will remove and make into jins at a later stage. We trim away some of the branches so that we can actually see all the major branches that we will need.

We wire the bigger branches so that we can move them into position at this stage. So, now we’re ready to do some of the finer branches. And we just carry on with this till we got everything. After the wiring, we set the tree in the pot giving it the right angle that we require. We cover it with the bonsai mix which is Akadama and pumice that we use for most of our trees.

This particular size is 3 mm to 6 mm. It helps hold a lot of water so the Juniper likes a lot of water. We use it for the Juniper. Adriana ties the tree inside and then we tighten it with a jin plier. We pull and remove any gaps that that appear. There are a lot of videos that will show you the details on how to repot a bonsai. As with applying moss or with how to wire the bonsai into the pot as well. Adriana’s giving it a quick clean now. That’s always part of the process that we go through. And then we apply green moss on to the tree. I’m now going to be jining the branches that are cut away. I remove all the cambium from the bark from the branch. I split the branch into four and then use the jin plier to strip away bits of it so that it appears that we have a natural break in the trunk.

No cut branches should appear. And there we are. This is the Juniper, nicely potted up. It’s been shaped into a semi cascade style. In a couple of years, we will give it another bit of styling and make it a little bit more in keeping with what we want. Thank you for watching. If you enjoyed the video, please give us a thumbs up. And if not, well there’s the other icon. And do subscribe. We add videos regularly. Thank you. .

18) Flowering Crab Apple Bonsai Tree Specimen from Field Grown Bonsai Stock

 Hello bonsai enthusiasts. In this video, we’re going to repot a Crab Apple. This particular one is about 21 years old. It’s been field grown for 18 years and has been in this black pot for about three years. It’s now pot bound and it’s time to repot into a bonsai pot. It’s got a lot of features and it’s nicely branched out and it would make a lovely bonsai. We start off, I guess, by knocking the pot off. Generally, you thump the side of the pot and then thump the top of the pot off to help dislodge it from the root ball. Use a stainless steel dibber or even a wooden dibber to help remove soil from the top of the surface. Use a sharp root shear and root cutters to help you with removing the finer roots and the larger roots.

Shape the root ball so that it tapers gently towards the soil. Remove any large, ugly roots and work your way, all the way to the bottom of the pot, working gently and slowly. While using the chopstick, try not to use it vertically, but use it horizontally so that you’re not digging into the root ball. Rather, moving bit by bit away. You may have to use a chisel and mallet to try and remove some of the larger roots or help shape the nebari properly. I’m using a half an inch gorge in this particular, half an inch gorge chisel in this particular section. It’s very effective at tapering nebaris. You then work your way all around the root ball cutting off any large roots as you work around. Make sure that the root ball doesn’t disintegrate. Keep it firm and solid all the time and this is quite a nicely shaped nebari. It’s nicely tapered and remove down to the bottom of the root ball. We’re now ready to pot on. This pot has been nicely meshed out and wires have been installed in the pot.

That will help us bind the tree into the pot. This is a Japanese blue pot, oval shaped to help accentuate the feminineness of the Crab Apple. It’s a pot bellied shape so it adds value to the overall aesthetic of the tree. I’m using a mixture of Akadama and pumice in the soil that I’m using for the tree. It’s granular, 3 – 6 mm. You make a little mound in the centre of the pot and then use the, place it so that it fits in the centre of the pot, both along the length and the breadth of the pot, and the nebari should be just slightly above the pot surface. Fill up the pot with soil and then use a mallet so that the soil falls properly into the pot and all the empty spaces are filled out, Top up wherever necessary and gradually process it. The tree is now ready, it’s quite an attractive bonsai. I hope you enjoyed the show. .

Japanese Maple Bonsai Repotting Trees-Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series, London, UK #152

Welcome to Ma-ke bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz and today I’m going to talk to you about repotting Japanese maples. The Japanese maple has a very short duration in which you can repot it, and that’s got to do with the leaf buds starting to swell. In this stage, I decided to repot the tree. When it reaches this stage, the buds have swollen quite a bit and the leaves are just beginning to unfurl. It’s most probably already on the late side to repot. So, remember that when you’re going to repot, it’s got to do with how the tree is rather than the time of the year. It doesn’t matter whether it’s February, March April. If the buds have begun to move as we like to say in the bonsai world, then it’s a good time to repot.


You may get between 15 to maybe 45 days in which you can repot the tree, provided you spot the moment in the tree earlier. I would wait just a bit longer until the leaves have fallen between there and there to start repotting. Ok, now that we have finalized when we’re going to repot, this is the tree that we’re going to repot today. It’s a little Japanese maple. The soil has become quite compacted. The roots are beginning to get affected and the growth of the bud that should have progressed quite a lot has not become as much as it should be. So, to get the root ball out of the pot, we will start by using the sickle. It’s got a serrated edge on one side. It helps with cutting it out of the pot.


You need to apply a little bit of force to actually cut through the Akadama and the pumice and roots that are in there. Be careful that it doesn’t slip and you cut yourself. So, you may need to start to go around a few times before you are able cut through… So, remember, there is a wire running, so cut out any binding wires underneath. Use a wooden chopstick to help with dislodging it so work your way around the pot gently tweezing it out of the pot. You get it out of the pot. And there you are. We have a lot of roots growing round and round that need to be cut. Ok. The next stage is to make sure that before we start repotting that we clean out the bonsai pot. In this particular case, I’m not going to be using this bonsai pot. I’m going to be using a smaller one. The point of using a smaller pot like this is that it will make the tree look much bigger. I’m going to use this little Chinese yellow pot for repotting the tree. It’s got a nice pattern around the side which will look quite nice on the pot.


Ok so, I’m going to use some mesh to cover up the holes on the bottom. There we are. The pot is wired up, nice and ready. Put it aside for the time being and then we carry on with now working on the Japanese Maple. Ok, we start off by tweezing off any weeds that may be in the soil. I’m using tweezers… and I work on this little wooden block because it helps me keep my root ball intact. If I hold it in my hand, there’s a danger that the end of the root ball would break and that’s a no-no as far as I’m concerned because the idea is to repot with as less stress to the tree as possible. So, by keeping the root ball intact, that ensures a minimum stress in the tree. Now the idea is for me to remove a half centimeter, three-quarter centimeter of soil from the top so that I can replace it with fresh soil. I will work from the sides into the nebari.


So, I use a pair of heavy duty shears to help me with my root pruning. You must dislodge all the soil from the root ball before you cut the roots. Once you’ve dislodged the soil and the pumice from there, you can then cut the roots back to the new surface on the root ball. But it’s essential that you first tweeze away the soil on the ? that just affects the tip of the blade. It blunts it. So, I work my way around the tree. I clean the nebari from any moss or anything on it and get rid of any roots that are higher up. Cut them off. And that’s the roots that are crossing from one end to the other end. They’re not radiating outwards. All roots should radiate outwards. So just get rid of that. And that gets a much tidier nebari base. Before I reduce the root ball any further of the width of…, I need to measure out the sides of the new pot. The old pot was quite a bit bigger than the new pot. So, I am going to measure the new pot size. I have 13 centimetres length by 9 centimetres.


I’ll leave one centimeter all around for the fresh soil, so that will leave me… 13-2 = 11 centimetres, so 5.5 centimetres on each side. So, the new root ball… So, I’ll work away around the edges as I described before. Remove all the soil and the roots that are exposed on the nebari. Now, measure 5.5 centimetres from the side. So, the width of the pot is 9 centimeters, which means 7 centimetres, 3.5 on each side. So, start on the side that’s closest to you, remove to the mark that you made, and carry on. So, there’s 3.5 on the other side. So there we are. It’s now fitting in nicely into the pot and there’s one centimeter all around Ok, now that we’ve got our pot all sorted and the root ball done and fitting in properly into the bowl, we start by layering a thin layer of soil on the bottom of the pot.


We build a little mound in the centre which will help us arrange the tree. If you want to know the composition of the soil that I am using, look up one of my videos on bonsai soil and it will give you a full explanation of the types of soils that we use and for the species that we use. Ok, so now we need to ensure that the tree is lined up in the centre. It is lined up in the center down the side and that the nebari is just above. This is slightly below where I want it to be. So I’m going to raise it a tad by building the mound underneath and there we go. I think that’s kind of right. So, it’s centered, centred down the side, the trunk is vertical and the nebari is just above. So now, I will fill up the thing with the rest of the soil.


One of the things I use for managing my soil in the pot is I use a rubber mallet. A rubber mallet has been well-used, boiled in water to make it a little bit soft. Here we go. By tapping rapidly, the soil settles in all the crevices and spaces that are there. So, eventually, all areas underneath the root ball, if there are any… And you can see that the soil is disappearing underneath. That means there are some crevices that still need to be filled up. So top up quickly. Give it another tap or two. And now that I’ve settled it up, I will bind the example. The wire, from the long side toward the starboard side, making sure that we make contact with the root ball and then I tighten it with my hand, as much as I can. Do the same with the other side, making sure that I’m not touching the nebari. So, while turning it in, I pull so that there’s a gap that appears underneath the wire and then I tighten it up again so that any gap that appears is closed up by twisting it.


Pull, close any gap by twisting. Then cut off, leaving just one or two curls on the wire. Now the other side. And then I just put some more soil until I get a nice gradual slope in the pot. I’ll use the spatula, it’s rather a unique design of spatula. It helps to make sure that the soil is put in well and I can maintain a little slope. There we go. So now we’ve repotted it and put the symmetry in the right place, I’m going to water it and then we can moss it up. So there we are. There’s the basin of water and I’m going to give it a dunking which is just below…. So, the water feeds in from underneath. You can see it’s starting to come in quite rapidly from underneath. So…. let it run for a second or two. Ok, so now that I’ve watered the tree, I’m going to place moss on it.


I use golden sphagnum moss. The moss helps to keep the soil from drying up too quickly. It retains moisture at the top level to the soil…. And also provides an area where the roots can grow, all the way to the surface. If you don’t put a moss layer on top, then because the soil continuously keeps drying out in between watering, you lose the roots at the surface, but it’s the moss that dries out rather than the soil. So, when you water again or after the moss has dried up, the roots are always in the top, all the way up to the top surface of the soil to just below the moss.


I put the moss over the edges and I’ve squished it into the sides so that its sits underneath the lip of the pot so that when the soil dries or the moss dries in the sun and they try to lift, the lip contains it from lifting, so the edges of the pot don’t curl. Sometimes, it’s a good idea to use your hand to firm the soil and the moss together. The last step is, I’m going to apply some green moss. This moss is collected from India and you use it to sprinkle on the sphagnum moss. And in a couple of months, the sphagnum moss will support the green moss as it grows on it. And within a few months more, the green moss will eat away the sphagnum moss and connect to the soil and grow. And it gives the tree a finished look and also, it helps protect the surface roots and so it’s a win-win situation, and from that, I think it’s quite essential in the repotting process.


And that basically is how we repot a Japanese Maple. Remember, the key point when repotting a Japanese Maple is to look for the bud swelling and if the buds have extended too much, then perhaps it’s better to wait till next year to repot. And that’s it. That’s one Japanese Maple bonsai tree repotted. Thanks for watching and if you did like the video, give me a thumbs at the bottom. And do subscribe if you haven’t already subscribed. Look out for my other videos and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. Bye. . bamboo sheets