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146) Ficus Bonsai, Genus, benghalensis, बरगद, Virens, Panda, Ginseng, Indoor Bonsai बोन्साई नंदी,

Hello everybody. Welcome to the Ma-ke Bonsai channel again. I’m Mark D’Cruz and and today I’ll be talking to you about one of my favorite genus of trees that I like to bonsai. It’s from the Moraceae family or the mulberry family and it’s called ficus or the fig genus. The ficus genus is believed to have about 1500 different species in it. Many of them are in Asia but I think the majority of them are in Africa at the moment with many of them being discovered as we speak. I grew up with the fig tree in India and it has always been one of my favorite species. The one that I remember the most is the Banyan tree or the ficus benghalensis.

The ficus benghalensis is native to India and a lot of Asian countries but it’s known for its rather large leathery leaves. Even when you bonsai them, they tend to be a little bit on the large size which is why you really need to have large to very large bonsais with a banyan tree. In India, they are very, very popular and they are usually significantly large bonsais. They are commonly called the bar tree in India or Bargad is also one of the other names. It has a lot of auspicious significance attached to the fig tree and the bargad tree. The ficus benghalensis happens to be one of the largest trees in India. The large ficus tree in Calcutta is about 300 years old or maybe slightly older, and it covers an area of four acres, some 12,000 square meters or something like that. But about 4 acres of land. The main tree or the original tree seems to have died away some time ago, but the tree, because of its aerial roots that it does have, tends to be growing outwards and outwards, and now it’s moving back into itself where the central tree had to be removed.

It is in the national heritage park in Calcutta by the Hooghly river and well, it’s going to be there for generations more I’m pretty sure. As bonsais, ficuses too can live extremely long. In fact, theoretically they’re infinitely long, which means if you look after your bonsai properly and your fig properly, you should be able to be able hand them down from generation to generation quite easily. The ficus leaves do reduce and they will reduce as long as you can get the ramification going.

The smaller the stem is, the smaller the leaf size tends to be. So, the best way of reducing the leaf size in a ficus, as with most of the species, is to increase the ramification on the tree. You can see this particular one is a runaway shoot which I’ll cut off later on. But leaves on that shoot are extremely large. So, the Ficus can be grown from cuttings and they grow quite well from cuttings with a very heavy success rate. The ficus can grow from seeds. It has a short viability the seeds, so the seeds have to be very fresh. The ficus banyan has big red fruit, big in the sense that they’re about 1 to 1.5 centimetres in diameter globus. The flowers of the ficus is the fig itself, while the inflorescence is the fig. Oh, and the ficus benghalensis is pollinated by just one species of wasp. Most ficuses are pollinated by only one or two species of wasp, and the wasps are usually very, very small because they have to get into the inflorescence which is the opening of it.

It’s very, very small. One of the reasons why they do not normally become invasive when moved from country to country. Having said that, in Hawaii, the ficuses have become quite invasive because I think when they imported the tree, inside they imported berries with some larvae in the fig itself which kind of escaped into the environment, which being very friendly to it. Well they thrived there, and now they’re having trouble trying to get rid of the ficus from Hawaii. So, the ficus is benghalensis one of my favorite trees and in India, it is grown all around from the Deccan Plateau all the way up to ? I am not sure whether it reaches Delhi or not yet but I’ve seen them growing but I don’t remember Delhi, it is some while ago, and in my recent trips, I haven’t seen any. Delhi is becoming quite full of buildings. So, the ficus benghalensis a great, great bonsai tree. You find them in many containment areas where they grow as shade trees and in fact, many of the old highways used to have miles and miles of ficuses, fig trees or the Banyan tree on the sides of them because they used to provide tremendous amount of shade for the traveler, perhaps on the bullock or on the old cart, and also later on, by cars and trains or whatever else.

But yes, so the ficus benghalensis is my favorite tree and I’m sure that you will enjoy it once you start trying to grow them. In the UK, this particular one has been grown from a seed and the seed ficuses tend to have a little codex at the bottom. Many, many ficuses have that ability. They store food during season times of plenty and then, they release it to the trunk and the leaf during lean times. So, I will feature that the ficus benghalensis and many other ficuses have adapted.

This particular ficus has a leathery leaf feel to it and most ficuses that are drought-tolerant that live in the drier areas tend to have this feature. The ficuses from wetter areas tend to be very waxy and have shiny, waxy leaves that help ward off too much rain as can happen in many parts of India and China with monsoons. So, it’s a protective mechanism having the wax in them. This particular one, of course, has a leathery feel and it has inflorescence on top which kind of, I think, helps keep, one the dust off, and two, cut moisture from the air as and when it’s there. The ficus I don’t think like to be repotted too often. I try not to repot them too often. They can get, their roots tend to be not as fibrous as many of the other trees that we grow, but nevertheless, if you don’t repot them often enough, they can get pot bound and then they don’t quite like being in a pot bound situation either so you do have to take care when repotting.

So, when you’re repotting, if you repot, just removing the fringes of it, you’ll find that the ficus doesn’t suffer any disjointedness. Bare rooting the ficus is problematic, I find at least in this part of the world. In India and in warmer parts, you most probably can get away with it quite well. Of course, in that part of the world, don’t try and bare root them if it’s not in the monsoon period. That’s the best time for them to grow, as in the monsoon period, the ficus benghalensis actually grows down a whole lot of hairy roots from the branches and from the trunk, so the moisture helps very much with the propagation and growth of the ficus benghalensis. Right, I think I’ve talked enough about the ficus benghalensis. I get a bit carried away. It is my favorite species. Another one of my species that I like and I’m very fond of is the ficus panda. It’s a ficus microcarpa which has roundish leaves. But at times, it has been called ficus Americana and in fact. I’ve called it a ficus Americana on my website bonsai guide for quite some time.

But it’s most probably just a ficus microcarpa with the variant of round leaves on it. The microcarpa, or this particular ficus panda, the variety tends to propagate very, very easily from cuttings and I find that any cutting that I take grows very easily as we grow them along. Because they’re from cuttings, you can even see the fruits tend to form on them, even as little trees. These are one & half, two-year-old cuttings. You can take them from practically any size of stem. The ficus does well as cuttings. The ficus panda is not as common as I would like it to be, mainly I think because the leaf size tends to put off many growers. Having said that, compared to the banyan, the ficus panda is minuscule.

Compared to a ritusa, it’s a little bit on the larger size, but nevertheless, it’s a great, great species. It has darker leaves than a ficus ritusa. The leaves are a lot more tough and the leaves can become quite large if you will let them. They’re leathery to the touch and thickness and quite robust. The bark has the tiger bark kind of markings on them which is commonly found on ficus microcarpa too.

But this particular ficus was much much taller. I aerated the top of it up and eventually, it’s going to be a much smaller tree as I increase ramification of this particular species. This ficus panda is an import from China. I have a few of these or had a few of these, I think I have two of them left but I’m going to keep one of these for myself, I think.

But the leaves on the ficus panda can reduce very, very easily and again, this whole tree was pruned because it had a fungal attack on it and I had to remove all the leaves and clean up the bark and all the crevices. I use Neem oil and a soap solution to help get out the bugs. The Neem oil tends to smother the pests and the soap dehydrates them, so we need to be sure of both. The ficuses in general don’t mind Neem oil and a soap mixture. Some of the other trees can be either finicky to the soap or to the oil so you just have to test what works with your trees. Anyway, look up my video on the homemade pesticide, organic pesticide. And now I’m going to talk to you about another very popular species in India. It’s called ficus virens is its scientific name but the ficus virens is also called lipstick ficus because it’s got smaller pink little leaves on them when they are young. So, when the tree has new leaves on it in spring and perhaps in the rainy season when lots of lots of growth is happening, this is an evergreen tree like most ficuses, they are evergreen.

But when it gets cold, then some ficuses will drop their leaves and then come back in spring. Others don’t take kindly to being cold so you have to keep them at a higher temperature. I for one grow all my ficuses either indoors in my home or in the greenhouse. In the greenhouse, the humidity is very high and the temperatures are not allowed to drop below 10 degrees, 6 degrees at worst times. Having said that, occasionally if the temperature really plummets outside and it doesn’t really happen too much in London. It’s happened once, maybe twice in the 20 years that I’ve been round here. But, then the greenhouse may just about get to 0 and my heating system needs to be boosted to take care of them.

But anyway, the ficus virens has a leathery leaf. The leaves are a lot more lancelot longer in shape than most of the other ficuses. I quite like the shape of the ficus virens. It has lots of aerial roots like with most other ficuses. Again, this one was grown from seed and as you can see, it has quite a bulbous trunk. In terms of age, it must be about 10-15 years old. I think it’s about 15 years old, closer to 15, but I’ve taken a lot of cuttings from this fig tree, and they grow very easily from cuttings, the ficus virens.

Yeah, here we are. This is a ficus virens taken from cuttings. Now, when you take it from a cutting, it tends not to have this bulbous structure at the bottom but the virens do have a great ability of making good nebari so it’s not a problem at all. The nebari sets in quite well as do most ficuses. The nebari are quite beautiful. But yes, they propagate very easily from cuttings. I grew this while growing from seed, the success rate is not very good. This is perhaps the only one that survived out of a batch that I had, and in the UK, there can be problems in the first few years of these things.

But when you grow them from cuttings, they tend to be a lot stronger. Of course, take the cuttings in spring in the UK and in India and all, I guess you can take it just about any time but the monsoon period is perhaps the best time for taking longer term cuttings if you want them growing fast enough with the humidity around and the heat being quite good. So that is the ficus virens or the lipstick ficus as it’s called in India. This particular one is the ficus macrophylla, again grown from cuttings about the same time as the ficus virens was growing. It’s commonly called the Australian ficus. The seeds were sent to me by an Australian interneter and most of the seeds that I got grew so I have quite a few of these ficus macrophylla or had quite a few ficus macrophylla in my collection.

I must have about a dozen of them also left now, but I take cuttings from these things and they grow from cuttings very, very easily. This burnt out thing is caused by slugs. For some reason, the slugs seem to love this particular variety of ficus. I’m not quite sure why but the slugs tend to eat the back of the leaf off and then the leaf just dies away in that area where the slug has eaten it. I left the leaves be on because the leaf helps with the part that is live, still helps with the photosynthesis of the tree. If it’s going to be displayed or presented for an exhibition, then I cut it off but otherwise I don’t really fuss about it. The ramification on the macrophylla is quite coarse and this one is 15 years old or more and it still hasn’t really ramified too much. It was allowed to grow quite tall which is why it’s built up quite a bit and we cut it back and then the ramification has started on it, and the ramification has only been in the last few years, maybe four or five years, but it’s beginning to happen so let’s see.

I’ve seen some specimens online and it shows that they are quite attractive. The leaf size on the macrophylla itself, macrophylla means big leaf, is quite huge. But as a bonsai, it reduces extremely well. Again, the more the branches you have on it, the more the smaller leaves will get. You can see it loves its aerial roots and with a little bit of humidity and grown in a greenhouse without doing anything to the tree, no misting, no nothing, just keeping the humidity high around it. I grow these, all my ficuses in humidity trays. Large trays. I’m moving more and more towards having all my trees on these trays because it keeps the humidity higher in London and London tends to be quite dry during summer time in terms of humidity at least. When it rains it rains. It can rain rather erratically, but humidity doesn’t tend to stay around too long in London in the summertime so you have to provide humidity for the ficuses. And I found that lots of my other trees also seem to enjoy the humidity with it.

So, as a practice now, I tend to grow most of my trees, especially the smaller mame-sized trees on humidity trays. They really, really appreciate being on humidity trays. The roots will come down from the trunk and branch. I leave it and every now and then, I’ll remove some of them but in general, I like the aerial roots. It reminds me of my childhood when I was swinging on the banyan trees so I keep them. It looks sometimes dishevelled and unfashionable but there are trees and there are trees and there are trees, and if all my trees look the same, I would get little bored. They will grow underneath into the humidity tray so every now and then, cut roots off from the bottom. When you do that, it just increases the ramification in the pot so it helps both ways. And so, even if the pot gets dried, the tree doesn’t dry out because the humidity tray usually always has water in it, and the tree just does very well with it.

So, this is the ficus macrophylla or Australian ficus. Here are some cuttings I have taken from this subspecies and they do quite well as cuttings. The nebari on these things is quite substantial, so when I pot one, I expose the nebari and it becomes quite well. You can see the leaf size is quite big. I haven’t really done anything to these trees. They must be about four-year-old cuttings but I like the macrophylla. The leaves are nice and dark, they’re quite beautiful. Here’s how I would take a ficus macrophylla cutting. I’d put four or five of them in a pot and just let them grow, and you can see, they do quite well as they grow on. This one has been left to grow for a while and the main stalk which is much, much taller and they develop the thickness because I’ve cut off the stalk.

It’s died back to the node below, and from there, they started off its own journey again. So, it’ll be there for another five, six years before I decide to prune back and then I’ll have movement in the trunk anyway. So it will be kind of nice. So the ficus macrophylla or Australian ficus as it’s called. This particular ficus is one of the few ficus creepers. Ficuses don’t generally, are not generally creepers but this particular one, I think has also a variegated variety that I’ve seen. I have one somewhere in my collection but I couldn’t find it for the video which happens to me often. But there you are. I have selected quite a few trees and sometimes they do tend to get lost between themselves. Anyway, this is a whole lot of cuttings that I’ve taken from the main tree, well not the main tree from some of these creepers on this, and you just stick them in a pot and they take off. As long as you keep them in a nice greenhouse, warm and humid, they just flourish.

They have no problems about carrying on growing. This one has been grown on a tanuki. It’s not a full tree by itself, it’s a dead Chinese Elm that I’ve tied the creepers when they were about this size onto it. And as you can see, it’s taken over the tree quite well. The nebari or the root has just clearly started out quite beautifully so it’ll carry on as we grow. The leaves are almost heart-shaped, I think they’re quite cute and they’re very small so they make nice bonsais. As tanukis, they are ideal little things for tanukis.

You can see I’ve held the tree down with heavy aluminium wire at the bottom which anchors it to the base of the pot. Again, this has also been grown in a humidity tray and has with most ficuses, it enjoys the humidity. I have to give this tree a pruning at some stage, maybe in spring when I can take some more of these prunings and grow them on. There are not many people who grow these as bonsais and I want that to change a bit so I think they’re quite rewarding. So anyway, the creeping ficus or ficus pumila as it’s called, ficus pumila. Ficus Ginseng. The ficus ginseng is nothing more than a baby ficus microcarpa, and the codex that is grown from seed. The growers tend to let it grow for a few years and then they push the soil lower down and then this exposes the codex root. The roots have stored the food and because they don’t really have much leaves on top, it’s not used them as yet. I pruned off some of the more uglier roots on this tree.

This particular variety has something called a ficus India grafted on the ficus ginseng or the ficus microcarpa. The ficus India has very, very dark leaves on it and these trees are commonly sold in supermarkets and in the UK and in IKEA and in many, many places. The thing to look out for when you’re buying these if they’re sometimes sold as bonsais, if you do happen to chance across one, check to see that the grafts are not grafted badly, because many times, the grafts are the first thing that will go, especially in drier conditions. As soon as you bring them home from a nursery, you will find that you may end up losing all the grafts on it. Then sometimes, they will revert to the ficus microcarpa underneath and they’ll have lots of new shoots from it which is the state that I prefer them to be in, but when they just have a codex and no trunk above it, it’s kind of difficult.

But you do have lots of much, much bigger specimens like this and they’re not very expensive at all. And then, you’ll have a whole lot of these grafts, and often these trees suffer a lot. During the last eight years or nine years, they were quite popular at many of the supermarkets which were sold at about 50, 60 pounds each. But I had at least 20 or 30 of them brought to me because they were dying away, and then I figured that the best way of actually letting these things carry on is to let them revert back to the ficus microcarpa stalk underneath.

They are much more robust than the Indian ficus which is just grafted on them, and the weakest point is of course, at the graft joint. So any time there is the lack of humidity or lack of watering or you forget to water it, the graft is let go and you’re back to the original ficus microcarpa underneath. So watch out for these ficus ginsengs. I think they are real cute little things but they’re susceptible to quite a bit of problems, so take care when selecting one of these things. This one is a strange looking tree. I don’t know, maybe a goblin. But anyway, a ficus ginseng, baby microcarpa is just about all that it is. This is the ficus elastica and in India, it’s called the rubber tree. It’s not really the tree that we make rubber as we know from for making tires and tubes and what have you, but the latex on this sometimes confuses people as they thought it would be good for rubber.

But anyway, this is just a normal ficus species. It’s a ficus elastica and in India, it’s very, very common as houseplants. The leaves can be a dark green to an almost black color, and I’ve seen lots of nice black ones. I ‘ve even see variegated ones too and they’re quite lovely. They could be dark and light green or they could be green and yellow, but the ficus elastica is a great species of bonsai, but the tree is quite coarse, the branches are quite coarse, so it never really makes specimen great bonsais if that’s what you want to call them, but I just love them.

They’re different, they’re big leaf, they have so much color and so much character on them, and then they have tons of aerial roots when you do let them grow in humid conditions. These ones have been growing indoors so they’re not really as profuse. I’ve tried to earlier do this which as you can see, the roots have already started developing quite well in the tree so they’ll make great cuttings afterwards, but yes, you can see the roots have filled out quite nicely in this. So the Indian rubber tree or ficus elastica. So, for you guys back in India, this is a great tree to experiment with.

This is a ficus religiosa. Seedlings that have been grown. They are all the same age but some of them have grown better than others. I had three, four pots of these. Most of them have been given away to my Indian friends, but they are an auspicious tree for lots of Hindu families. And so they tend not to last too long with me because they are taken away by my Indian friends. But I’ve been growing them to try and bonsai them.

They make great bonsais. When I was in in India, I saw some real good specimens. I have a few friends that have grown lovely ones in Pune and Bombay. The ficus religiosa goes up all the way to Odeppa and even Delhi, I am pretty sure. It has more of a waxy leaf than the ficus than the bird itself so it tends to grow more in the wetter areas then in the drier areas, but the ficus religiosa is a great tree to bonsai. In the UK, they are quite problematic but I’m persevering. They get attacked by bugs and fungus and they don’t like the cold so they can suffer a bit.

They do very, very well indoors. I have friends who’ve taken batches of seeds from me, pots from me, and their trees are three four times the size of mine. All they’ve done is grow them indoors on little trays so we shall see how they progress. But yes, the ficus religiosa. Well that’s my collection of, some of the collection of my ficus. Well, that’s some of the collection of my ficus. I have about 20 different species but I’ll carry on with them some other time at a later date. Well, I hope you enjoyed watching this video, and if you have liked it, click on the thumbs up below. And do remember to subscribe if you haven’t already subscribed as more and more videos will be released at least on a weekly basis. Thank you for watching and do take care. Bye for now. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari.

You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface.

She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows.

That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree. However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire.

Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot.

And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching.

This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to.

Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot.

And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed.

What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil.

The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed.

Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it.

And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil.

The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it.

Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work.

It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai Juniper Bonsai from Nursery Stock – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #161

 Welcome to Ma-ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’ Cruz. Today, we’re going to plant juniper that Bogdan has got from a garden centre. He paid 22 pounds for this and he’s planted it in this large garden pot for a couple of years and it’s gained a nice set of roots at the bottom. It’s now ready to be bonsaied, I guess. That’s the phase that we’re looking for. We start by working on the top to find where the nebari is. We turn the tree around to find the right angle. And the nebari will help us determine the right size. On turning the tree around, it was found that these two branches were a little bit on the low side and were not required. We decided to cut them off. And it seems that they got a nice set of roots so we will save them. We wrapped them in some sphagnum moss, tied them into a little bundle ready for repotting at a later stage. Back to pruning the roots away from the top of the sawing. We expose the nebari and work away all the fine roots that are there.

The nebari is the broadest part of the trunk and that’s what we’re looking for. We have a nice big branch that flows to one side so this is going to be a semi cascade kind of tree. We have a couple of low branches which we will remove and make into jins at a later stage. We trim away some of the branches so that we can actually see all the major branches that we will need.

We wire the bigger branches so that we can move them into position at this stage. So, now we’re ready to do some of the finer branches. And we just carry on with this till we got everything. After the wiring, we set the tree in the pot giving it the right angle that we require. We cover it with the bonsai mix which is Akadama and pumice that we use for most of our trees.

This particular size is 3 mm to 6 mm. It helps hold a lot of water so the Juniper likes a lot of water. We use it for the Juniper. Adriana ties the tree inside and then we tighten it with a jin plier. We pull and remove any gaps that that appear. There are a lot of videos that will show you the details on how to repot a bonsai. As with applying moss or with how to wire the bonsai into the pot as well. Adriana’s giving it a quick clean now. That’s always part of the process that we go through. And then we apply green moss on to the tree. I’m now going to be jining the branches that are cut away. I remove all the cambium from the bark from the branch. I split the branch into four and then use the jin plier to strip away bits of it so that it appears that we have a natural break in the trunk.

No cut branches should appear. And there we are. This is the Juniper, nicely potted up. It’s been shaped into a semi cascade style. In a couple of years, we will give it another bit of styling and make it a little bit more in keeping with what we want. Thank you for watching. If you enjoyed the video, please give us a thumbs up. And if not, well there’s the other icon. And do subscribe. We add videos regularly. Thank you. .

18) Flowering Crab Apple Bonsai Tree Specimen from Field Grown Bonsai Stock

 Hello bonsai enthusiasts. In this video, we’re going to repot a Crab Apple. This particular one is about 21 years old. It’s been field grown for 18 years and has been in this black pot for about three years. It’s now pot bound and it’s time to repot into a bonsai pot. It’s got a lot of features and it’s nicely branched out and it would make a lovely bonsai. We start off, I guess, by knocking the pot off. Generally, you thump the side of the pot and then thump the top of the pot off to help dislodge it from the root ball. Use a stainless steel dibber or even a wooden dibber to help remove soil from the top of the surface. Use a sharp root shear and root cutters to help you with removing the finer roots and the larger roots.

Shape the root ball so that it tapers gently towards the soil. Remove any large, ugly roots and work your way, all the way to the bottom of the pot, working gently and slowly. While using the chopstick, try not to use it vertically, but use it horizontally so that you’re not digging into the root ball. Rather, moving bit by bit away. You may have to use a chisel and mallet to try and remove some of the larger roots or help shape the nebari properly. I’m using a half an inch gorge in this particular, half an inch gorge chisel in this particular section. It’s very effective at tapering nebaris. You then work your way all around the root ball cutting off any large roots as you work around. Make sure that the root ball doesn’t disintegrate. Keep it firm and solid all the time and this is quite a nicely shaped nebari. It’s nicely tapered and remove down to the bottom of the root ball. We’re now ready to pot on. This pot has been nicely meshed out and wires have been installed in the pot.

That will help us bind the tree into the pot. This is a Japanese blue pot, oval shaped to help accentuate the feminineness of the Crab Apple. It’s a pot bellied shape so it adds value to the overall aesthetic of the tree. I’m using a mixture of Akadama and pumice in the soil that I’m using for the tree. It’s granular, 3 – 6 mm. You make a little mound in the centre of the pot and then use the, place it so that it fits in the centre of the pot, both along the length and the breadth of the pot, and the nebari should be just slightly above the pot surface. Fill up the pot with soil and then use a mallet so that the soil falls properly into the pot and all the empty spaces are filled out, Top up wherever necessary and gradually process it. The tree is now ready, it’s quite an attractive bonsai. I hope you enjoyed the show. .

Japanese Maple Bonsai Repotting Trees-Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series, London, UK #152

Welcome to Ma-ke bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz and today I’m going to talk to you about repotting Japanese maples. The Japanese maple has a very short duration in which you can repot it, and that’s got to do with the leaf buds starting to swell. In this stage, I decided to repot the tree. When it reaches this stage, the buds have swollen quite a bit and the leaves are just beginning to unfurl. It’s most probably already on the late side to repot. So, remember that when you’re going to repot, it’s got to do with how the tree is rather than the time of the year. It doesn’t matter whether it’s February, March April. If the buds have begun to move as we like to say in the bonsai world, then it’s a good time to repot.

 

You may get between 15 to maybe 45 days in which you can repot the tree, provided you spot the moment in the tree earlier. I would wait just a bit longer until the leaves have fallen between there and there to start repotting. Ok, now that we have finalized when we’re going to repot, this is the tree that we’re going to repot today. It’s a little Japanese maple. The soil has become quite compacted. The roots are beginning to get affected and the growth of the bud that should have progressed quite a lot has not become as much as it should be. So, to get the root ball out of the pot, we will start by using the sickle. It’s got a serrated edge on one side. It helps with cutting it out of the pot.

 

You need to apply a little bit of force to actually cut through the Akadama and the pumice and roots that are in there. Be careful that it doesn’t slip and you cut yourself. So, you may need to start to go around a few times before you are able cut through… So, remember, there is a wire running, so cut out any binding wires underneath. Use a wooden chopstick to help with dislodging it so work your way around the pot gently tweezing it out of the pot. You get it out of the pot. And there you are. We have a lot of roots growing round and round that need to be cut. Ok. The next stage is to make sure that before we start repotting that we clean out the bonsai pot. In this particular case, I’m not going to be using this bonsai pot. I’m going to be using a smaller one. The point of using a smaller pot like this is that it will make the tree look much bigger. I’m going to use this little Chinese yellow pot for repotting the tree. It’s got a nice pattern around the side which will look quite nice on the pot.

 

Ok so, I’m going to use some mesh to cover up the holes on the bottom. There we are. The pot is wired up, nice and ready. Put it aside for the time being and then we carry on with now working on the Japanese Maple. Ok, we start off by tweezing off any weeds that may be in the soil. I’m using tweezers… and I work on this little wooden block because it helps me keep my root ball intact. If I hold it in my hand, there’s a danger that the end of the root ball would break and that’s a no-no as far as I’m concerned because the idea is to repot with as less stress to the tree as possible. So, by keeping the root ball intact, that ensures a minimum stress in the tree. Now the idea is for me to remove a half centimeter, three-quarter centimeter of soil from the top so that I can replace it with fresh soil. I will work from the sides into the nebari.

 

So, I use a pair of heavy duty shears to help me with my root pruning. You must dislodge all the soil from the root ball before you cut the roots. Once you’ve dislodged the soil and the pumice from there, you can then cut the roots back to the new surface on the root ball. But it’s essential that you first tweeze away the soil on the ? that just affects the tip of the blade. It blunts it. So, I work my way around the tree. I clean the nebari from any moss or anything on it and get rid of any roots that are higher up. Cut them off. And that’s the roots that are crossing from one end to the other end. They’re not radiating outwards. All roots should radiate outwards. So just get rid of that. And that gets a much tidier nebari base. Before I reduce the root ball any further of the width of…, I need to measure out the sides of the new pot. The old pot was quite a bit bigger than the new pot. So, I am going to measure the new pot size. I have 13 centimetres length by 9 centimetres.

 

I’ll leave one centimeter all around for the fresh soil, so that will leave me… 13-2 = 11 centimetres, so 5.5 centimetres on each side. So, the new root ball… So, I’ll work away around the edges as I described before. Remove all the soil and the roots that are exposed on the nebari. Now, measure 5.5 centimetres from the side. So, the width of the pot is 9 centimeters, which means 7 centimetres, 3.5 on each side. So, start on the side that’s closest to you, remove to the mark that you made, and carry on. So, there’s 3.5 on the other side. So there we are. It’s now fitting in nicely into the pot and there’s one centimeter all around Ok, now that we’ve got our pot all sorted and the root ball done and fitting in properly into the bowl, we start by layering a thin layer of soil on the bottom of the pot.

 

We build a little mound in the centre which will help us arrange the tree. If you want to know the composition of the soil that I am using, look up one of my videos on bonsai soil and it will give you a full explanation of the types of soils that we use and for the species that we use. Ok, so now we need to ensure that the tree is lined up in the centre. It is lined up in the center down the side and that the nebari is just above. This is slightly below where I want it to be. So I’m going to raise it a tad by building the mound underneath and there we go. I think that’s kind of right. So, it’s centered, centred down the side, the trunk is vertical and the nebari is just above. So now, I will fill up the thing with the rest of the soil.

 

One of the things I use for managing my soil in the pot is I use a rubber mallet. A rubber mallet has been well-used, boiled in water to make it a little bit soft. Here we go. By tapping rapidly, the soil settles in all the crevices and spaces that are there. So, eventually, all areas underneath the root ball, if there are any… And you can see that the soil is disappearing underneath. That means there are some crevices that still need to be filled up. So top up quickly. Give it another tap or two. And now that I’ve settled it up, I will bind the example. The wire, from the long side toward the starboard side, making sure that we make contact with the root ball and then I tighten it with my hand, as much as I can. Do the same with the other side, making sure that I’m not touching the nebari. So, while turning it in, I pull so that there’s a gap that appears underneath the wire and then I tighten it up again so that any gap that appears is closed up by twisting it.

 

Pull, close any gap by twisting. Then cut off, leaving just one or two curls on the wire. Now the other side. And then I just put some more soil until I get a nice gradual slope in the pot. I’ll use the spatula, it’s rather a unique design of spatula. It helps to make sure that the soil is put in well and I can maintain a little slope. There we go. So now we’ve repotted it and put the symmetry in the right place, I’m going to water it and then we can moss it up. So there we are. There’s the basin of water and I’m going to give it a dunking which is just below…. So, the water feeds in from underneath. You can see it’s starting to come in quite rapidly from underneath. So…. let it run for a second or two. Ok, so now that I’ve watered the tree, I’m going to place moss on it.

 

I use golden sphagnum moss. The moss helps to keep the soil from drying up too quickly. It retains moisture at the top level to the soil…. And also provides an area where the roots can grow, all the way to the surface. If you don’t put a moss layer on top, then because the soil continuously keeps drying out in between watering, you lose the roots at the surface, but it’s the moss that dries out rather than the soil. So, when you water again or after the moss has dried up, the roots are always in the top, all the way up to the top surface of the soil to just below the moss.

 

I put the moss over the edges and I’ve squished it into the sides so that its sits underneath the lip of the pot so that when the soil dries or the moss dries in the sun and they try to lift, the lip contains it from lifting, so the edges of the pot don’t curl. Sometimes, it’s a good idea to use your hand to firm the soil and the moss together. The last step is, I’m going to apply some green moss. This moss is collected from India and you use it to sprinkle on the sphagnum moss. And in a couple of months, the sphagnum moss will support the green moss as it grows on it. And within a few months more, the green moss will eat away the sphagnum moss and connect to the soil and grow. And it gives the tree a finished look and also, it helps protect the surface roots and so it’s a win-win situation, and from that, I think it’s quite essential in the repotting process.

 

And that basically is how we repot a Japanese Maple. Remember, the key point when repotting a Japanese Maple is to look for the bud swelling and if the buds have extended too much, then perhaps it’s better to wait till next year to repot. And that’s it. That’s one Japanese Maple bonsai tree repotted. Thanks for watching and if you did like the video, give me a thumbs at the bottom. And do subscribe if you haven’t already subscribed. Look out for my other videos and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. Bye. . bamboo sheets