How to make bonsai

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed.

What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil.

The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed.

Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it.

And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil.

The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it.

Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work.

It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

BONSAI TREE making for Beginners at Home, Jade Plant, indoor plant decoration in HINDI eng subtitles

Take a shallow Pot/Tray. Holes are for draining extra water Jade Plant Trunk is thick, groovy and looks like an old tree. Bonsai Soil is made up of Half Sand(bajri) and half garden soil It helps proper drainage Cover holes with flat stone Spread a layer of Soil Roots of plant should grow side-ward not downwards. Place plant on a side in pot for natural looking, placing in center is not appropriate Branches should go opposite sides Place a stone under the roots so that they grow side wards. Place the plant and spread another layer of soil. Water the plant Soil must adsorb water and drain extra water.

Jade Plant is very fleshy and do not need excess water. Coral stones for decoration and support for tree. spread stone granules for decoration, moss can also be used. love birds or any other show piece for decorating. .

How to make bonsai Juniper Bonsai from Nursery Stock – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #161

 Welcome to Ma-ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’ Cruz. Today, we’re going to plant juniper that Bogdan has got from a garden centre. He paid 22 pounds for this and he’s planted it in this large garden pot for a couple of years and it’s gained a nice set of roots at the bottom. It’s now ready to be bonsaied, I guess. That’s the phase that we’re looking for. We start by working on the top to find where the nebari is. We turn the tree around to find the right angle. And the nebari will help us determine the right size. On turning the tree around, it was found that these two branches were a little bit on the low side and were not required. We decided to cut them off. And it seems that they got a nice set of roots so we will save them. We wrapped them in some sphagnum moss, tied them into a little bundle ready for repotting at a later stage. Back to pruning the roots away from the top of the sawing. We expose the nebari and work away all the fine roots that are there.

The nebari is the broadest part of the trunk and that’s what we’re looking for. We have a nice big branch that flows to one side so this is going to be a semi cascade kind of tree. We have a couple of low branches which we will remove and make into jins at a later stage. We trim away some of the branches so that we can actually see all the major branches that we will need.

We wire the bigger branches so that we can move them into position at this stage. So, now we’re ready to do some of the finer branches. And we just carry on with this till we got everything. After the wiring, we set the tree in the pot giving it the right angle that we require. We cover it with the bonsai mix which is Akadama and pumice that we use for most of our trees.

This particular size is 3 mm to 6 mm. It helps hold a lot of water so the Juniper likes a lot of water. We use it for the Juniper. Adriana ties the tree inside and then we tighten it with a jin plier. We pull and remove any gaps that that appear. There are a lot of videos that will show you the details on how to repot a bonsai. As with applying moss or with how to wire the bonsai into the pot as well. Adriana’s giving it a quick clean now. That’s always part of the process that we go through. And then we apply green moss on to the tree. I’m now going to be jining the branches that are cut away. I remove all the cambium from the bark from the branch. I split the branch into four and then use the jin plier to strip away bits of it so that it appears that we have a natural break in the trunk.

No cut branches should appear. And there we are. This is the Juniper, nicely potted up. It’s been shaped into a semi cascade style. In a couple of years, we will give it another bit of styling and make it a little bit more in keeping with what we want. Thank you for watching. If you enjoyed the video, please give us a thumbs up. And if not, well there’s the other icon. And do subscribe. We add videos regularly. Thank you. .

How to Grow Adenium Bonsai Step by Step with 12 Months UPDATES-Adenium Bonsai-Bonsai//GREEN PLANTS

Welcome back to my channel today i’m going to show you the Adenium bonsai updates from re-potting two months later from first re-potting this adenium bonsai pruning the branches with a sharp blade 12 months later from first re-potting now preparing the bonsai to re potting remove the old soil completely it’s a flat round bonsai pot put the bonsai soil stones on the base layer next put the bonsai soil placing the plant in the center filling the sand after potting watering covering the soil with fine sand finally fill the white stones to cover the soil , this will help to keep the soil moist 8 months later, pruning the branches 12 months later bonsai blooming thanks for watching

Dwarf Murraya Paniculata, NATURAL BONSAI TREE Step 2, Be the Creator, Sept. 2018,

Hello! This is Samar … welcomes you to Be The Creator Bonsai Gardening You will remember last November… … my two natural bonsai Ive transplanted from nursery pot Then I had some confusion … regarding the name of these trees Most of the friends assume it as Boxus Then one of the friends, named Amit Kumar … Removed my confusion That is Dwarf Murraya Paniculata … That means, its a dwarf variety of Kamini Thank you once again Amit. Now it has nicely settled in the pot and …. according to my plan … I’ve to prune them now Due to its dense foliage, … no sunlight can reach inside So … In the interior … … no shoots can develop.. getting die back automaticaly And it’s trunk and branches ….

Can’t get strong and healthy If I’ll prune it … then every part of the tree will get sunlight and … will grow more strong and … healthy The work I’ll do in this episode … you will understand every thing while watching On last episode …. the 12 … rules to select bonsai branches That I’ve shared …. I’m applying those rules here Please watch it carefully Occasionally, unwanted branches … are also grown To balance the tree growth … and in future we have to prune it These type of branch is … called Sacrifice branch Observation … is a vital job … to make bonsai You have to observe your trees regularly As much as you observe your trees … that much the relationship with your trees … will become stronger Such time will come, when .. Language of the trees … you will begin to understand The trees also say something Along with the weather … they change themselves Some time full of new foliage and shoots … Or sometimes it becomes like that gets tired You can only observe the upper potion of a tree Seeing which you have to understand … what is going on, under the soil When you see a green blossoming tree …

Then understand- their rootball too … is in the same condition New shoots means new roots Seasonal plants … which you grow for blooms and fruits etc. … I’m not talking about that I’m talking about the long living plants Not any long living trees … grow continuously They grow on a particular season … and on another season … take rest also which is … called dormancy period Wht is the perfect time to work on bonsai ? Not in the dormancy period .. and not in growing season After dormancy .. when the tree is preparing for growth …

That is the best time Then you do root correction, …. transplantation ….. and pruning work. To make proper bonsai you need sense of art along with .. a good soul too. Observing the trees, … caring them is a continuous process After an uninterrupted 5, 10, 20 or 25 years of … working on a tree… you can make a proper bonsai After such a long time of togetherness … your relation that buildup withe the tree is so deep, you can imagine it The bonsai coming from generations are so different Friends Bonsai is waste of time according to some body Don’t want to offend anyone…. But i would say so …. The ones who spend time with Bonsai … they are not valuing there time commercially …. while doing these works And vale is not the price only … something more than that which can’t be purchased Like that ….

Bonsai is an art And Only … this is the art which is called … Living Art Bonsai and the artist has living relation Thats all for now friends See you on next video Till then Goodbye .

How to Bonsai a Peepal tree (With English subtitle)

Hello This is a peepal tree Initially the plant was planted in normal soil Then it is transferred to a pot I am working on the root of the plant so I have to take a good care of the roots This is a a handmade hill type tree pot you can plant tree or cactus I have made this in my home If any one missed the video please see the video (link in description) now see I am planting the peepal tree in the hill type pot Previously I have placed a stone under the roots since here a light weight material required so I am placing a half coconut shell under the root. These are home made bonsai soil After one year for the last one year the tree was in the hill type pot The soil has become Harden Now the treetop require a repairing. so I dismantel the plant I am placing the plant on a different pot This is also a tree pot made out of stones This also I have made in my home If interested you can watch the video in my channel.

Main important thing in bonsai plant is soil, drainage hole keep them perfect the root should not get decomposed. Thank all of you for watching the video .