Bonsai

How to make bonsai Olive or European Olive Bonsai Tree with Ginta bonsai trees #95

Quite good. Yeah, and near the leaves, underneath the branches. Ok. So if there’s a branch, obviously the leaves need to come out. It’s not a stem, it’s a branch. So the stems have leaves and the branches don’t. Branches have other branches on them, no stems. I think they’re too many as well. Shall we take off this one? Actually there are already too many which means something has to go. I think that one has to go, this one. Right, first let’s remove the leaf so we can see the tree, as there’s too many leaves around. So now we can see some branches emerging. I think this one has to go. No, because that is coming out outwards nicely, can you see? So that forms a nice, this guy, first of all is too ugly. Why is too ugly? Because it is straight absolutely, there is no ramification in it.

The little ones are always what we want because bonsai is all about small branches so we try and keep them. There are three coming out of here so… So take the biggest one out and leave the two smaller ones. How is it looking? It’s looking good. Ok, empty out your tray now. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed.

What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil.

The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

12 Rules to Bonsai Branch Selection, Be the Creator

Hello! This is Samar … welcomes you to Be The CREATOR channel In this video I’m going to share…. 12 rules to Bonsai branch selection i.e. …when we make bonsai … which branch should we grow and … which branch should we prune I’m sharing this video tutorial on request of some of my … bonsai lover friends For all beginner… bosai lovers … it’ll be very useful video tutorial For easy presentation I’ve … made this illustration Look at the tree … First let your tree grow well… for at least 2 to 3 years , then … you think about branch selection Before branch selection … choose the front of your tree After that select the bonsai branches If the branch structures are not properly visible to you Then defoliate it first Now all the branches …

And their layout will be visible to you Roule No. 1 Branches growing from the ground level… are to be pruned Because … They are not bonsai suitable branches Rule No. 2 Branches directly pointing towards you… remove them. These are called Eye poker branch It covers the bonsai apex …. it should not be Rule No. 3 Branches growing from the similar height … of the trunk line…

Towards opposite direction You can grow any one of them You have to decide which branch is … more authentic …. to grow and prune the other Look at this branch …. has grown from inside of the curve…. should be pruned Branch growing like this … deteriorates the beauty of a bonsai Rule No. 4 There should not be any parallel branches on bonsai Adjacent two branches … growing towards same direction … then they are not bonsai suitable at all Keep any one of them Here you have to decide, which one to be pruned and …

Which is to be grown Between tow branches shown in the picture, this one … is more suitable… so we have to prune this branch Rule No. 5 Branches growing from almost same point must not be thre You have to prune one of them Rule No. 6 Any branch … growing vigorously compare to other branches… Prune it Branch like this can damage your bonsai Due to this, growth of other branches can be stopped Dieback is also possible Rule No. 7 Any sub branch … from any branch …. growing towards opposite direction, prune it Rule No. 8 Any branch that is growing straight downwards …

Prune it Rule No. 9 Which is growing straight upwards Prune it too Rule No. 10 The leader of the tree i.e. the tip of the main trunk line or apex… has to be pruned By this the growth of the tree will be controlled Otherwise the whole energy will be spent to grow the apex Rest of the branches which are growing in bottom … will dieback eventually Rule No. 11 Grow the secondary branches grown from the primary branch And prune the tip of the primary branches Rule No. 12 Up to one third of the total height No branch should be there Here this branch is to be pruned too In result the trunk line will be well visible And will be look like a matured tree Hope, the 12 rules of bonsai branch selection I shared, … you understand Still if you have any doubts or question then please ask me in the comment section bellow Now watch the branch selection of a Shimpaku Gold Juniper If you want to learn the authentic way to make bonsai …

and till now … not a subscriber to this channel Then press the Subscribe button surely Because This is the only Indian channel…. to learn authentic Bonsai making Press Like and Share button if you like the video And allow me to say Goodbye See you soon on next video .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed.

Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it.

And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil.

The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it.

Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work.

It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to Grow Maple Bonsai From Seeds /Japanese Maple / for beginner – 6th june 2017/Mammal Bonsai

If you have not yet subscribed to the Mammal Bonsai channel Then subscribe to the channel by pressing the red button And press this bell icon so that when I upload a new video you get the message Hello Friends, i am Vijay saini & welcome to Mammal Bonsai . i have some queries that how to grow japanese bonsai from seeds Maple Bonsai seed does not mean that the seeds will become bonsai only these seeds are normal maple tree seeds If we grow up they will become a normal tree So there is no seed of Bonsai. We have to make it bonsai it has to give a shape So that’s why I bought some seeds Yesterday I had received this seeds So I thought I should share with you maple seeds need cool climate to germinate While there is a lot of heat here, and seeds can not survive this summer.

But i brought these seeds for try it i will try with different method i will tell you how you can also try it if you have these seeds so i will tell you that how to grow it so first of all open it and take seeds now open packet I have not bought seeds online yet have bought for the first time today because these seeds not available here so i brought it there is 10 seeds in this packet look this may be its bill and these are seeds There were 10 seeds written in it. But there is more seeds in it more than 10 seeds it is bill of 99 look this is seeds now talk that how to grow so first method is that Take this type of zip lock bag and fill it in the peat moss when will use peat moss spray lightly with water for keep moisturising don’t take big bag take bag according your seeds take moisturized peat moss and mix seeds in peat moss then lock zip and keep in refrigerator after 3-4 month is will germinate then you can shift in different pots one other methode is that mean keep it to soak water at night then morning you can keep in peat moss bag after zip locked keep it in refrigerator in this way it grow fast This is the way to grow it fast that ..

Grow direct ut for that you need fresh seeds mean if you collected seeds from tree then you can grow it direct in the soil so then seeds grow quick keep it in refrigerator in october -November and then sow it in the february then also grow fast because here germination process fast in february plants growth also fast so we can grow like this so i will tell you both method sp let’s start its seeds same like rosewood its seeds like rosewood seeds these seeds are mixed seed , here see two type Look i show you you can see two type seeds here its different its looks green and this verity is different take a zip bag like bag if you want to grow 10-20 seeds then You take a little bigger bag than this But I’m experimenting and I will grow with many method And see which of these 5-7 ways is successful And the way I succeed I will share with you so now i will tell you common ways to grow maple seeds take peat moss like this but i haven’t peat moss so m using cocopeat fill the coco peat in the bag It must be aware that there must be a moisturising in it not dry look , we filled it now put the maple seeds in the bag i will put 4 seeds i will shake it after put seeds So that seed can be mix n Coco peat or mix it in cocopeat with your hand I have put the seeds in it and now I will seal it.

I will lock zipp like this we have zipped it and now keep it in the refrigerator I will keep this in refrigerator For 4 months And then we will see the result of what comes We will continue to see this in between and then any seeds sprout so this is our first way we can grow like this You can soak it by planting it like this 2nd method is that how to grow direct in the soil for that i will use this pot Although this method works well on the fresh seeds We should sow from January to February But we try and see what goes on in trying when you grow direct then you can grow in bonsai soil also but for that need cool climate and here not good climate for maple i will use bonsai soil for these maple seeds look ,we will use this bonsai soil now i will sow the seeds in the soil so i will put 2 seeds look this One will grow this kind of seed and one this type mean we put 2 seeds and put some soil on it now apply some cocopeat now watering in it seeds planted now keep it to germinate i will not keep it in refrigerator, i will grow it like normal seed Let’s see which way is successful Apart from these 2 methods, I will see the seeds which are still remaining in new ways And see what the way is successful If they were successful in some way So I will share that method with you.

At the moment I have told you two methods you also can try like this this method i mean poly bag method take long time may be it take 3 -4 months and this is normal method i will try another method too and i will share that method with so if you have japanese maple seeds then you can also grow .rainy season coming soon so rainy seson best for growing seeds i will tell you how to care it after germination after germinate your seeds then you can shift in a little big pot and keep in the semi shade like keep under big tree shade Where the sun comes but in such a hot sun take care of watering keep moisturising in the soil If one tree is grown here successful then Then we will have many seed Some friends say that maple will not grow here So I say that we should try the tries to do it.

Trying to get success can sometimes happen so i have some more seeds of maple and i will try these seeds with different methods look , we have many seeds more When I bought it was written there, it has different color seeds one light blue ,one red ,one yellow and one green color so So there were four colors shown when it grow then we can see the color ok friends m trying to germinate these seeds with new methods If a seed is germinated then I will show you the update ok friends see you in the next video till then goodbye .

Honeysuckle Bonsai – Update from 2018

Welcome to Appalachian bonsai. Today’s video is gonna be a pruning of this Amur Honeysuckle. This honeysuckle was collected back in 2017. It was on my friend Lemuel’s property. Now, the thing about the Amur honeysuckle is it is extremely invasive here in the United States. Originally it comes from Asia, but it has made its way over, and I think that it is perfect for collection. If any of you out there have issues with collecting trees from the wild, give invasive species a try. There’s nothing wrong with collecting a tree that’s not supposed to be there in the first place. The footage for this video was captured April 2018, which was a fine time to prune. it’s now January 2019, which is not necessarily a good time to prune, but, January is a great time to edit videos you didn’t have time to edit last year. I hope that clears up any questions you might have had about the seasons.

If you’ll notice with this pruning, I’m taking it down to one or two buds per branch as well as thinning out the branches. These Amur honeysuckles are extremely vigorous. It’s one of the reasons why they’re invasive. Because of that, it can handle this type of pruning. There were many parts on this tree that were already dead, and I knew that going in to collecting it. But now that it’s had a full year of growth I understand where I want to grind, where to carve, and where to make artistic changes to the trunk and the structure of the tree. When using a pruning saw be careful not to force the blade. If you force the blade, your last cut might continue on and cut another section of live tree that you did not want to touch.

When I cut a large piece, like right here, I’ll cut the majority of the way through the trunk and then I will come on the back side and slightly cut it until it just falls off. There are many ways to carve up a tree, but I’m gonna be using a four inch wire wheel. Now, this wire grinder is often used for cleaning metal, but it does a pretty good job of carving up old dead wood, too. What I’m doing here is adding a taper to the trunk. We have a flat top and by cutting out a chunk I can make it look as if the tree is tapering towards that larger left branch. So, breaking it off right there, and I have better taper.

Now to finish it up a little bit more. The beauty of these large tools is you can eat away a lot of material at one time. Just be careful you don’t take away too much or hurt yourself. Now I’m using a Dremel tool with a little burr on it, and this is adding some finer details. You see those holes are actual worm holes. Those are from beetles and other types of insects and I am exploiting them. They are natural, and I want to accentuate them and add these lines that follow the curve of the trunk, follow those bug holes, open up those bug holes, and it just adds so much depth. I think it’s just a really gorgeous feature. I’ll finish it up with a little wire wheel.

This miniature wire wheel just takes off all the little frayed pieces of the wood. Let’s take a look at those roots. This tree is extremely hardy, as I’ve said before. Wow! Look at that! That’s a lot of roots! That’s one year of growth from this particular species. It’s also one of the reasons why I’m able to do a heavy prune on the top and a heavy prune on the bottom and still allow it to survive. Use your chopstick to clear out the old soil. This tree has been without water for a couple of days. With the soil a little bit dry it falls out so much easier. You don’t have a muddy mess. There’s our puppy dog. His name is Rocky. He is a pain. We love him. tease those roots out with your hands, with the chopsticks, or whatever tools that you find easiest for this type of work.

As you work your way underneath the root ball you can find some roots that can be removed. It will allow the tree to sit a little bit lower into the pot. A nice sharp pair of bonsai pruning shears can make really quick work of these wide outer roots Here is another large root that needs to be removed. It has some smaller fine roots that are growing off the sides above my cut. This helps make sure the root stays alive and I can get it into the pot. I know it seems excessive with all the roots I’ve taken off and all the top I’ve taken off, but as I may say again this is a very hardy species. It can handle this type of work.

Okay, so now that I have the roots pruned up, I can put them into a pot. I have my wires and my screens in place, and I’m adding a little bit of pre-made soil. My soil mixture is three parts Turface MVP, which is a type of fire clay, three parts of pine bark, two parts diatomaceous earth, and one part coarse masonry sand. I have them sifted between two and six millimeters. Check the description for those items if you need to look at them again. You’ll notice I’m adding a little bit of plastic tubing to this wire. This is airline hose, which goes with a lot of aquariums. I’m using it to protect those roots so that as it grows it doesn’t form around that wire, which is sometimes known as wire bite. And then you pull and twist. I’m adding soil to the pot one or two scoops at a time. And then I use my chopstick to work that soil in between each of the roots, starting from the trunk and working my way outward.

If you’ve watched any of my previous videos, I’ve mentioned about working the chopstick up and down, wiggling it from side to side, sometimes you can tap the sides of the pot with your fist and that all helps get that soil in between those fine roots. After you’re done working the soil into your pot make sure you water it thoroughly. Protect your tree from strong sunlight and strong winds for the next couple of days until it’s recovered.

Also, be wary of young puppy dogs. I hope you’ve enjoyed this video. Like and Subscribe, because there’s more to come. Thanks for watching! .

How to Grow Orange Bonsai | Calamondin Chinese Orange | Bonsai Trees for Beginners //GREEN PLANTS

Growing orange bonsai from air layering these are already prepared orange tree air layerings Cut the air layers, from the bottom of the polyethylene remove the polyethylene be careful do not cut the roots now place the root ball in the pot and fill it with potting soil press it gently and water it after 60 days now ready to re pot this orange plant get the tree out of the pot remove the soil this is the hand made clay pot in this pot now i’m going to repot the orange plant put the stones first layer these stones will provide better drainage to the plant add the bonsai soil fill the soil in half of the pot place the tree in soil place the moss on top of the soil add the stones and cover the soil this helps to keep the soil moisture and also when you are watering to the bonsai tree the stones protect the soil and roots from damages watering to the orange bonsai tree pour the water for every two days after finished re potting

Collecting for Bonsai – Roadside Attractions 1

>> Ben: We’ve all done it. We’ve all driven down the side of the road and just said, ‘Hey! That’s a tree I could go for!’ ♫ bluegrass music ♫ The Department of Transportation, whatever state you’re in, generally mows down the edges so you can have a good line of sight. And that can be beneficial to bonsai hunters, because you can find some very interesting things that may or may not be useful. Look at this hornbeam. This is just awesome. This thing is probably about 4″ – 5″ right there. I’ve got this big long branch that’s next to me. I wonder how well it’s rooted in the ground. Yeah, it’s pretty solid. Got all these rocks around here that will make it very difficult to get out. There’s also, right behind it, right there, a Virginia juniper, which also might make this difficult. But, this tree – I might just have to consider what I can do.

Look at this guy. If you can see it. I don’t know. It could make some interesting stuff. Something to keep in mind. It’s loose, which means I can dig it up. The roots, because I’m looking downhill, the roots are probably coming up this way. So, I need to keep that in mind. Which means this thing is going to be slanted out, and be kinda funky. You know, it’s got some large sections to it. You can see there’s a scar right there, and starting to callous over. I may be able to clean that out, or leave that and clean this out. I like working with this material because one It allows me to toy around, experiment a little bit without really worrying of damaging a really nice yamadori. And you never know – you might come up with some really interesting things in the process. You get a lot of funky looks working on the side of the road, but it’ll be worth it. Here’s a needle juniper – common juniper. You can see, it’s got a pretty interesting trunk here.

Hand for reference. This is in a ditch. Alright. Whoa, look at th.. Awww! Fooled! I thought that was a nice live tree. Nope. That one’s toast. As always, be very careful when you’re working on the side of the road. Here, the Department of Transportation has cut away this guy, right here. This is big. The base is probably 9″ in diameter. Look at that beauty. There’s good and bad points about this: One: It’s already been cut; I can clean up some of this. Two: it may or may not pop out. Three: Getting that baddy out of all this rock.

And this stuff is loose It can fall into the road, which is not good. One: for safety reasons Two: For the annoyance of people who are trying to get by. It’s something to think about, though. That’s what I’m talking about. That’s it right there Look at the shape, the curve, the interest And, it’s right in the middle of a rock. It’s really loose. There may be, right here, where this rock is, there may be just a little bit of an indentation that could probably be hidden either by soil, or it could be hidden by rocks and moss or something.

We won’t even know until we dig this up in the spring. But, i’m getting this guy. Look at that. Just curve, curve, curve, curve and it’s got all these beautiful little flutes in there, that I just love. As always, it’s best to get permission from the owner no matter who it is. That includes the Department of Transportation who maintains the roads here.

I have called the Department of Transportation before, and they have given me permission, But, rules change from year to year. There’s always the possibility that what was relevant one year will not be relevant the next. So, I will be calling again this year to check and see what the possibilities are if I can. Generally, for me, it has been 20 feet from the road. It might now be 15 feet which limits what I can and cannot take. It’s always best, because otherwise, you might get arrested. You might get shot at. You might get in a lot of trouble. So, let’s avoid that as bonsai enthusiasts. We want to be respectful of other people’s property, and, that will make things better for everybody. If we have bonsai artists just going in collecting whatever they can find off the side of the road without asking permission it puts a bad name on everybody. Let’s avoid that at all costs. ♫ bluegrass music ♫ .

How to Grow Bonsai Trees : How to Care for your Bonsai Tree : Bonsai Maintenance

Here we have a small Chinese Elm that has kind of been in bonsai for quite some time and it needs a hair cut. What I’m going to show you right now, in this segment, is how we keep the tree small. So many times people ask is how do you keep the tree small. It’s very very simple. What we do is prune the tree, it’s very analogous to getting a hair cut. If we never cut our hair we’d probably have quite long hair. On trees, if we don’t prune these little trees they will grow up to be large trees. The process is really as simple as this. Here, all along, we thought that this was an ancient Chinese secret that as being withheld for a good reason. As you can see while I’m pruning, you can see the shape of the tree is getting restored. One of the secondary effects of pruning is that the tree leaves remain small.

You can see the scale just by the leaves against my fingers they’re quite small. Where as, if this tree were allowed to grow to its full potential in the ground it would have full size leaves. Another thing that doesn’t escape bonsai is weeds. Most of our bonsai trees live outdoors, so we use a sturdy pair of tweezers that’s very handy to remove the weeds without taking too much of our moss away. The moss looks kind of pretty looks like grass. It just looks a little tedious, if you were pulling weeds in your vegetable garden. I’m messing with these tweezers so I can get down very easily amongst the moss and remove the leaves.

And now she’s back and in good shape again and eager to grow a little more. .

How to make Bonsai tree for Beginners from Garden Center Plants

Making trees or growing your own trees is a very satisfying way of making your collection larger in bonsais. You can grow them from seed, you can even collect them from the wild, you can get them from friends or you can buy a ready-made bonsai. But I think one of the more, or the less talked about areas is to make a bonsai from nursery stock, normal garden centre stock. Selecting trees in the nursery. Well, you start off with some idea of what you want whether you want deciduous or whether you’re after some evergreen trees. But having decided, you go to the relevant sections and try and look for trees that have interest in the trunk or in the foliage or the shape of the tree itself is attractive. Once you’ve identified the tree, then the next step is to try and work with it. So the first thing to do is to take the tree out of the pot. You generally have to thump it out with a mallet or with a wooden block. Hit the sides of the pot and it may just dislodge Once that’s done, use a turntable and then work with a metal chopstick or wooden chopstick to start clearing away soil from the top of the tree to see what kind of nebari you have.

You can work down towards where the nebari is exposed. Once you’ve found the nebari, you look for the front of the tree and the front usually shows off the best movement in the tree. That should give you an idea as to which way the tree is leaning or which way the tree has a lot of character. You then start looking for the structure within the tree so you clear away excess foliage, you clear away excess branches, and when you’ve done that, then you can try and style it by wiring it or shortening some of the branches. The next step after a little while is to choose a suitable pot and then match the pot with the tree.

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