bonsai trees

How to make bonsai Olive or European Olive Bonsai Tree with Ginta bonsai trees #95

Quite good. Yeah, and near the leaves, underneath the branches. Ok. So if there’s a branch, obviously the leaves need to come out. It’s not a stem, it’s a branch. So the stems have leaves and the branches don’t. Branches have other branches on them, no stems. I think they’re too many as well. Shall we take off this one? Actually there are already too many which means something has to go. I think that one has to go, this one. Right, first let’s remove the leaf so we can see the tree, as there’s too many leaves around. So now we can see some branches emerging. I think this one has to go. No, because that is coming out outwards nicely, can you see? So that forms a nice, this guy, first of all is too ugly. Why is too ugly? Because it is straight absolutely, there is no ramification in it.

The little ones are always what we want because bonsai is all about small branches so we try and keep them. There are three coming out of here so… So take the biggest one out and leave the two smaller ones. How is it looking? It’s looking good. Ok, empty out your tray now. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed.

What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil.

The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed.

Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it.

And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil.

The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it.

Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work.

It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to Grow Orange Bonsai | Calamondin Chinese Orange | Bonsai Trees for Beginners //GREEN PLANTS

Growing orange bonsai from air layering these are already prepared orange tree air layerings Cut the air layers, from the bottom of the polyethylene remove the polyethylene be careful do not cut the roots now place the root ball in the pot and fill it with potting soil press it gently and water it after 60 days now ready to re pot this orange plant get the tree out of the pot remove the soil this is the hand made clay pot in this pot now i’m going to repot the orange plant put the stones first layer these stones will provide better drainage to the plant add the bonsai soil fill the soil in half of the pot place the tree in soil place the moss on top of the soil add the stones and cover the soil this helps to keep the soil moisture and also when you are watering to the bonsai tree the stones protect the soil and roots from damages watering to the orange bonsai tree pour the water for every two days after finished re potting

How to make Bonsai tree for Beginners from Garden Center Plants

Making trees or growing your own trees is a very satisfying way of making your collection larger in bonsais. You can grow them from seed, you can even collect them from the wild, you can get them from friends or you can buy a ready-made bonsai. But I think one of the more, or the less talked about areas is to make a bonsai from nursery stock, normal garden centre stock. Selecting trees in the nursery. Well, you start off with some idea of what you want whether you want deciduous or whether you’re after some evergreen trees. But having decided, you go to the relevant sections and try and look for trees that have interest in the trunk or in the foliage or the shape of the tree itself is attractive. Once you’ve identified the tree, then the next step is to try and work with it. So the first thing to do is to take the tree out of the pot. You generally have to thump it out with a mallet or with a wooden block. Hit the sides of the pot and it may just dislodge Once that’s done, use a turntable and then work with a metal chopstick or wooden chopstick to start clearing away soil from the top of the tree to see what kind of nebari you have.

You can work down towards where the nebari is exposed. Once you’ve found the nebari, you look for the front of the tree and the front usually shows off the best movement in the tree. That should give you an idea as to which way the tree is leaning or which way the tree has a lot of character. You then start looking for the structure within the tree so you clear away excess foliage, you clear away excess branches, and when you’ve done that, then you can try and style it by wiring it or shortening some of the branches. The next step after a little while is to choose a suitable pot and then match the pot with the tree.

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How to make bonsai Juniper Bonsai from Nursery Stock – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #161

 Welcome to Ma-ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’ Cruz. Today, we’re going to plant juniper that Bogdan has got from a garden centre. He paid 22 pounds for this and he’s planted it in this large garden pot for a couple of years and it’s gained a nice set of roots at the bottom. It’s now ready to be bonsaied, I guess. That’s the phase that we’re looking for. We start by working on the top to find where the nebari is. We turn the tree around to find the right angle. And the nebari will help us determine the right size. On turning the tree around, it was found that these two branches were a little bit on the low side and were not required. We decided to cut them off. And it seems that they got a nice set of roots so we will save them. We wrapped them in some sphagnum moss, tied them into a little bundle ready for repotting at a later stage. Back to pruning the roots away from the top of the sawing. We expose the nebari and work away all the fine roots that are there.

The nebari is the broadest part of the trunk and that’s what we’re looking for. We have a nice big branch that flows to one side so this is going to be a semi cascade kind of tree. We have a couple of low branches which we will remove and make into jins at a later stage. We trim away some of the branches so that we can actually see all the major branches that we will need.

We wire the bigger branches so that we can move them into position at this stage. So, now we’re ready to do some of the finer branches. And we just carry on with this till we got everything. After the wiring, we set the tree in the pot giving it the right angle that we require. We cover it with the bonsai mix which is Akadama and pumice that we use for most of our trees.

This particular size is 3 mm to 6 mm. It helps hold a lot of water so the Juniper likes a lot of water. We use it for the Juniper. Adriana ties the tree inside and then we tighten it with a jin plier. We pull and remove any gaps that that appear. There are a lot of videos that will show you the details on how to repot a bonsai. As with applying moss or with how to wire the bonsai into the pot as well. Adriana’s giving it a quick clean now. That’s always part of the process that we go through. And then we apply green moss on to the tree. I’m now going to be jining the branches that are cut away. I remove all the cambium from the bark from the branch. I split the branch into four and then use the jin plier to strip away bits of it so that it appears that we have a natural break in the trunk.

No cut branches should appear. And there we are. This is the Juniper, nicely potted up. It’s been shaped into a semi cascade style. In a couple of years, we will give it another bit of styling and make it a little bit more in keeping with what we want. Thank you for watching. If you enjoyed the video, please give us a thumbs up. And if not, well there’s the other icon. And do subscribe. We add videos regularly. Thank you. .

18) Flowering Crab Apple Bonsai Tree Specimen from Field Grown Bonsai Stock

 Hello bonsai enthusiasts. In this video, we’re going to repot a Crab Apple. This particular one is about 21 years old. It’s been field grown for 18 years and has been in this black pot for about three years. It’s now pot bound and it’s time to repot into a bonsai pot. It’s got a lot of features and it’s nicely branched out and it would make a lovely bonsai. We start off, I guess, by knocking the pot off. Generally, you thump the side of the pot and then thump the top of the pot off to help dislodge it from the root ball. Use a stainless steel dibber or even a wooden dibber to help remove soil from the top of the surface. Use a sharp root shear and root cutters to help you with removing the finer roots and the larger roots.

Shape the root ball so that it tapers gently towards the soil. Remove any large, ugly roots and work your way, all the way to the bottom of the pot, working gently and slowly. While using the chopstick, try not to use it vertically, but use it horizontally so that you’re not digging into the root ball. Rather, moving bit by bit away. You may have to use a chisel and mallet to try and remove some of the larger roots or help shape the nebari properly. I’m using a half an inch gorge in this particular, half an inch gorge chisel in this particular section. It’s very effective at tapering nebaris. You then work your way all around the root ball cutting off any large roots as you work around. Make sure that the root ball doesn’t disintegrate. Keep it firm and solid all the time and this is quite a nicely shaped nebari. It’s nicely tapered and remove down to the bottom of the root ball. We’re now ready to pot on. This pot has been nicely meshed out and wires have been installed in the pot.

That will help us bind the tree into the pot. This is a Japanese blue pot, oval shaped to help accentuate the feminineness of the Crab Apple. It’s a pot bellied shape so it adds value to the overall aesthetic of the tree. I’m using a mixture of Akadama and pumice in the soil that I’m using for the tree. It’s granular, 3 – 6 mm. You make a little mound in the centre of the pot and then use the, place it so that it fits in the centre of the pot, both along the length and the breadth of the pot, and the nebari should be just slightly above the pot surface. Fill up the pot with soil and then use a mallet so that the soil falls properly into the pot and all the empty spaces are filled out, Top up wherever necessary and gradually process it. The tree is now ready, it’s quite an attractive bonsai. I hope you enjoyed the show. .

08) Bonsai Trees for beginners Series: Watering Bonsai Trees

My name is Mark D’Cruz of Ma-Ke Bonsai and I’m going to talk to you about watering bonsais. Why is water important to bonsai? Bonsai, like other plants and animals, are made up of the majority of water. Plants -between 70 to 95 % of water. Plants need water to distribute food within the tree. Plants need water to take the raw materials up from the roots to the leaves. Plants need water to make the food. Plants need water to distribute the toxins that it makes to fight off other diseases and pests.

We have watering cans and the different kinds, large and small but the most important thing about a watering can is that it should have a large spout or a long spout and the rose should be fine. Now the watering hose and lance both need fine roses. The roses have a number of holes in them that is quite substantial and the watering lance can distribute about 40 litres per minute. So watering with the watering lance is quite fast but also needs to be very carefully managed. When we are watering with the watering can, we need to make sure that the rose is pointing upwards and the water lies gently onto the pot surface. You only need to water a pot if it feels dry to the touch. If it feels damp, if it feels like a wet rag, it doesn’t need to be watered. Once you watered the pot, just make sure that you go up and down the pot three times. The first time helps the top surface absorb some water.

The second time, some of the water goes down to the bottom of the pot. The final watering ensures that watering goes all the way down and fills up the pot. When you’re watering with the lance, make sure that the lance is pointing upwards again and that the water falls gently onto the bonsai pot. Again, ensure that you do not water a pot if it is wet to the touch. You only water it when it is dry to the touch. You only water a bonsai in the morning. In the afternoon, sometimes in the middle of summer, perhaps you could water it just lightly, but more often than not you’ll just wet the leaves. Once again, when you’re watering with the lance, do a three pass system. One. To water the surface so that the water penetrates into the surface. Two, so that some of the water penetrates into the pot and the third pass is so that water finally passes right into it. And that’s how we water a bonsai.

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Japanese Maple Bonsai Repotting Trees-Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series, London, UK #152

Welcome to Ma-ke bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz and today I’m going to talk to you about repotting Japanese maples. The Japanese maple has a very short duration in which you can repot it, and that’s got to do with the leaf buds starting to swell. In this stage, I decided to repot the tree. When it reaches this stage, the buds have swollen quite a bit and the leaves are just beginning to unfurl. It’s most probably already on the late side to repot. So, remember that when you’re going to repot, it’s got to do with how the tree is rather than the time of the year. It doesn’t matter whether it’s February, March April. If the buds have begun to move as we like to say in the bonsai world, then it’s a good time to repot.

 

You may get between 15 to maybe 45 days in which you can repot the tree, provided you spot the moment in the tree earlier. I would wait just a bit longer until the leaves have fallen between there and there to start repotting. Ok, now that we have finalized when we’re going to repot, this is the tree that we’re going to repot today. It’s a little Japanese maple. The soil has become quite compacted. The roots are beginning to get affected and the growth of the bud that should have progressed quite a lot has not become as much as it should be. So, to get the root ball out of the pot, we will start by using the sickle. It’s got a serrated edge on one side. It helps with cutting it out of the pot.

 

You need to apply a little bit of force to actually cut through the Akadama and the pumice and roots that are in there. Be careful that it doesn’t slip and you cut yourself. So, you may need to start to go around a few times before you are able cut through… So, remember, there is a wire running, so cut out any binding wires underneath. Use a wooden chopstick to help with dislodging it so work your way around the pot gently tweezing it out of the pot. You get it out of the pot. And there you are. We have a lot of roots growing round and round that need to be cut. Ok. The next stage is to make sure that before we start repotting that we clean out the bonsai pot. In this particular case, I’m not going to be using this bonsai pot. I’m going to be using a smaller one. The point of using a smaller pot like this is that it will make the tree look much bigger. I’m going to use this little Chinese yellow pot for repotting the tree. It’s got a nice pattern around the side which will look quite nice on the pot.

 

Ok so, I’m going to use some mesh to cover up the holes on the bottom. There we are. The pot is wired up, nice and ready. Put it aside for the time being and then we carry on with now working on the Japanese Maple. Ok, we start off by tweezing off any weeds that may be in the soil. I’m using tweezers… and I work on this little wooden block because it helps me keep my root ball intact. If I hold it in my hand, there’s a danger that the end of the root ball would break and that’s a no-no as far as I’m concerned because the idea is to repot with as less stress to the tree as possible. So, by keeping the root ball intact, that ensures a minimum stress in the tree. Now the idea is for me to remove a half centimeter, three-quarter centimeter of soil from the top so that I can replace it with fresh soil. I will work from the sides into the nebari.

 

So, I use a pair of heavy duty shears to help me with my root pruning. You must dislodge all the soil from the root ball before you cut the roots. Once you’ve dislodged the soil and the pumice from there, you can then cut the roots back to the new surface on the root ball. But it’s essential that you first tweeze away the soil on the ? that just affects the tip of the blade. It blunts it. So, I work my way around the tree. I clean the nebari from any moss or anything on it and get rid of any roots that are higher up. Cut them off. And that’s the roots that are crossing from one end to the other end. They’re not radiating outwards. All roots should radiate outwards. So just get rid of that. And that gets a much tidier nebari base. Before I reduce the root ball any further of the width of…, I need to measure out the sides of the new pot. The old pot was quite a bit bigger than the new pot. So, I am going to measure the new pot size. I have 13 centimetres length by 9 centimetres.

 

I’ll leave one centimeter all around for the fresh soil, so that will leave me… 13-2 = 11 centimetres, so 5.5 centimetres on each side. So, the new root ball… So, I’ll work away around the edges as I described before. Remove all the soil and the roots that are exposed on the nebari. Now, measure 5.5 centimetres from the side. So, the width of the pot is 9 centimeters, which means 7 centimetres, 3.5 on each side. So, start on the side that’s closest to you, remove to the mark that you made, and carry on. So, there’s 3.5 on the other side. So there we are. It’s now fitting in nicely into the pot and there’s one centimeter all around Ok, now that we’ve got our pot all sorted and the root ball done and fitting in properly into the bowl, we start by layering a thin layer of soil on the bottom of the pot.

 

We build a little mound in the centre which will help us arrange the tree. If you want to know the composition of the soil that I am using, look up one of my videos on bonsai soil and it will give you a full explanation of the types of soils that we use and for the species that we use. Ok, so now we need to ensure that the tree is lined up in the centre. It is lined up in the center down the side and that the nebari is just above. This is slightly below where I want it to be. So I’m going to raise it a tad by building the mound underneath and there we go. I think that’s kind of right. So, it’s centered, centred down the side, the trunk is vertical and the nebari is just above. So now, I will fill up the thing with the rest of the soil.

 

One of the things I use for managing my soil in the pot is I use a rubber mallet. A rubber mallet has been well-used, boiled in water to make it a little bit soft. Here we go. By tapping rapidly, the soil settles in all the crevices and spaces that are there. So, eventually, all areas underneath the root ball, if there are any… And you can see that the soil is disappearing underneath. That means there are some crevices that still need to be filled up. So top up quickly. Give it another tap or two. And now that I’ve settled it up, I will bind the example. The wire, from the long side toward the starboard side, making sure that we make contact with the root ball and then I tighten it with my hand, as much as I can. Do the same with the other side, making sure that I’m not touching the nebari. So, while turning it in, I pull so that there’s a gap that appears underneath the wire and then I tighten it up again so that any gap that appears is closed up by twisting it.

 

Pull, close any gap by twisting. Then cut off, leaving just one or two curls on the wire. Now the other side. And then I just put some more soil until I get a nice gradual slope in the pot. I’ll use the spatula, it’s rather a unique design of spatula. It helps to make sure that the soil is put in well and I can maintain a little slope. There we go. So now we’ve repotted it and put the symmetry in the right place, I’m going to water it and then we can moss it up. So there we are. There’s the basin of water and I’m going to give it a dunking which is just below…. So, the water feeds in from underneath. You can see it’s starting to come in quite rapidly from underneath. So…. let it run for a second or two. Ok, so now that I’ve watered the tree, I’m going to place moss on it.

 

I use golden sphagnum moss. The moss helps to keep the soil from drying up too quickly. It retains moisture at the top level to the soil…. And also provides an area where the roots can grow, all the way to the surface. If you don’t put a moss layer on top, then because the soil continuously keeps drying out in between watering, you lose the roots at the surface, but it’s the moss that dries out rather than the soil. So, when you water again or after the moss has dried up, the roots are always in the top, all the way up to the top surface of the soil to just below the moss.

 

I put the moss over the edges and I’ve squished it into the sides so that its sits underneath the lip of the pot so that when the soil dries or the moss dries in the sun and they try to lift, the lip contains it from lifting, so the edges of the pot don’t curl. Sometimes, it’s a good idea to use your hand to firm the soil and the moss together. The last step is, I’m going to apply some green moss. This moss is collected from India and you use it to sprinkle on the sphagnum moss. And in a couple of months, the sphagnum moss will support the green moss as it grows on it. And within a few months more, the green moss will eat away the sphagnum moss and connect to the soil and grow. And it gives the tree a finished look and also, it helps protect the surface roots and so it’s a win-win situation, and from that, I think it’s quite essential in the repotting process.

 

And that basically is how we repot a Japanese Maple. Remember, the key point when repotting a Japanese Maple is to look for the bud swelling and if the buds have extended too much, then perhaps it’s better to wait till next year to repot. And that’s it. That’s one Japanese Maple bonsai tree repotted. Thanks for watching and if you did like the video, give me a thumbs at the bottom. And do subscribe if you haven’t already subscribed. Look out for my other videos and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. Bye. . bamboo sheets

Indoor Bonsai – Bonsai Trees for Beginners – Indoor Bonsai Care मार्क बोन्साई 03

 My name is Mark D’Cruz of Ma-Ke Bonsai and I’m going to talk to you about indoor bonsai care. There are effectively, over time we kind of learned that there’s nine different conditions that need to be met. First of all, light. Light is crucial to bonsais and often, without light, bonsais will perish. They will die slowly but they will die. Growing it on a window like this, a nice big bay window, ideally, it should be a south facing window, but if you don’t have one, then any facing window is good.

For some species you may need to add extra light in which case you use a light like this. This particular light uses a white light of 64,000 Kelvin which is ideal for growing bonsai. The next thing that you need to consider is of course water. Plants, like outdoor plants, need to be watered regularly when they are dry to the touch. Water them like you would do to outdoor plants. Ideally I would dunk them. Give them a dunking in a basin or a bucket. That helps to make sure that all the bowls are full. Another important factor to consider in growing trees indoors is heat. Now in a modern home like ours in the UK, that’s not really much of a problem because central heating takes care of heating in winter time. The only consideration is just to make sure that you do not place your bonsai directly over the heat source like, for example, a radiator or something like that, in which case, the dry heat from the radiator is going to kill the bonsai.

Bonsais need to be cooler in the night than during the day but not too cold. Many times bonsais will get too cold in the night so you need to monitor the temperature. Above 6 degrees is tolerable. Below 6 degrees gets difficult for the bonsai in the night. Plants need humidity. If you have a dry room which rooms get very dry with the central heating, the plants will suffer quite considerably. So that’s why we have humidity trays under each of the bonsais. That provides a little microclimate for the tree so that it manages to deal with the humidity.

Bonsais need to have air circulating around them. So if you put a bonsai in a place where there is no air circulation, eventually what happens is that fungus and other pests settle on it and it gets damaged, and it will die because of over fungus on the tree. Feeding and fertilizing. Use a balanced fertilizer 4/4/4 strength of 6/6/6. If you’re using a liquid fertilizer, feed every two weeks. If you’re using a pellet-type fertiliser, feed every two months or when the pellets disappear. Just like outdoor trees, indoor trees will suffer from from pests and disease. You need to keep a lookout for them. Indoor trees, because there’s a lack of circulation can suffer from pests quite often. Scale is quite a problem indoors as is aphids and spider mites. Bonsai pots and trees need to be kept clean. You need to regularly clean them out, brush them out so that if there’s any dead matter in the trees, remove any dead wood is removed, any dead leaves are removed so that circulation is always encouraged by cleaning up the thing.

Keep the top of the pot clean because then no bugs and no pests will settle in the dead matter that’s on top of the soil. And finally, dormancy. All trees need dormancy. They need to rest. Another thing to remember is that if you are growing, like I am here on the window sill, in the winter time, do not close the curtains over the plants. The warm air from the room will not come onto the plants and then the tree will just suffer from the cold air that comes in from the outside, and the coolness that comes out. And that’s how you look after indoor bonsais. .