bonsai tree

How to make bonsai Olive or European Olive Bonsai Tree with Ginta bonsai trees #95

Quite good. Yeah, and near the leaves, underneath the branches. Ok. So if there’s a branch, obviously the leaves need to come out. It’s not a stem, it’s a branch. So the stems have leaves and the branches don’t. Branches have other branches on them, no stems. I think they’re too many as well. Shall we take off this one? Actually there are already too many which means something has to go. I think that one has to go, this one. Right, first let’s remove the leaf so we can see the tree, as there’s too many leaves around. So now we can see some branches emerging. I think this one has to go. No, because that is coming out outwards nicely, can you see? So that forms a nice, this guy, first of all is too ugly. Why is too ugly? Because it is straight absolutely, there is no ramification in it.

The little ones are always what we want because bonsai is all about small branches so we try and keep them. There are three coming out of here so… So take the biggest one out and leave the two smaller ones. How is it looking? It’s looking good. Ok, empty out your tray now. .

How to Grow Croton Bonsai | 2 Croton Bonsai Repotting | Bonsai Trees for Beginners //GREEN PLANTS

Welcome to my channel now i’m going to show you Croton bonsai re-potting it is a three years old Croton bonsai this bonsai needs re potting because roots have filled the container and it has overgrown roots hold the soil together in a pretty tight loosen up the soil remove the tree carefully from its pot see the roots are almost overgrowing it is time to re pot removing the old soil carefully use bonsai root rake to carefully remove the soil if you don’t have bonsai root rake you can use chopstick or small stick to remove the soil when you are working avoid damaging the main root system and do not soak in water to remove soil because you can’t get the root ball prune all long , large and out grown roots do not prune more than 40% of all roots next i decided to replant the tree in another bonsai pot because i think the old pot haven’t enough space placing a mesh net or jute cloth piece to cover the hole now i’m just putting a thin layer of small stones in the bottom of the pot for drainage purposes then fill the new fresh bonsai soil then place the tree in position After placing the tree in the pot fill the bonsai soil this fresh soil should be worked in around and under the roots and also avoid leaving any air pockets make sure to fill all the air pockets around the roots use chopstick or any small stick and fill the air pockets after filling the soil add the stones or moss on top of the soil this will keep the soil moisture after repotting water the tree thoroughly use sprayer to water it’s an another type Croton bonsai now i’m going to repot it in another bonsai pot loosing the soil and remove the tree carefully from its pot i just use a small stick to remove the soil after removing the old soil roots pruning i just cut long and outgrown roots next repotting it in a bonsai pot covering the hole with a jute net and add the thin layer of stones and then put the bonsai soil and place the tree in the position and then add the bonsai soil after all watering to the tree with a sprayer next after repotting the trees keep them in shade for few days and then you can move them in sunny area thanks for watching

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed. Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it.

She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed.

What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it. And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil.

The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil. The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage.

She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it. Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work. It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along.

The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

How to make bonsai tree Fuji Cherry or Prunus incisa Kojo-no-mai Bonsai Trees From Nursery Stock

 Hello folks welcome to Ma-Ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’Cruz. Today, I have Adriana with me and we’re going to pot this Fuji Cherry which make beautiful bonsais. This particular picture is of a tree at Kew and you can see it has this beautiful weeping habit which we will try and replicate over the next few years of training. Adriana got this for 8 pounds from the garden centre. She’s going to take it out of the pot and work on the nebari. You start working on the nebari from the top and move down. Move away soil with a chopstick and then gently cut away the roots that have been exposed.

Brush the trunk and the nebari to remove any soil and moss that may have collected on the trunk. The trunk is the oldest part of the tree and by exposing it properly, you will show off the age of the bonsai as you are creating it. She’s working on removing some of the bigger roots at the moment. Tapering the root ball so that it has a slope to the centre of the tree. Adriana carefully measures the depth of the pot and the width of the pot to ensure that she has the root ball to the right size. She would mark out the areas that she needs to cut away although keeping in mind that there is one centimetre space between the root ball and the pot surface. She uses little tags to mark where she’s going to cut to. Because this is a peat based potting mix from the garden centre, it’s actually quite easily done. But with normal bonsai soils, it’s a little bit more tedious but nevertheless, the same instructions have to be followed. What about that Mark? Is that too high? I would go down one centimetre, one and a half centimetre because you’ve got to put soil in it.

And then that height is more or less what you want it to be. I’m going to open it a bit more here, as it grows. That pot is absolutely perfect for it. Adriana adds a thin layer of soil at the base of the pot and then makes a little mound in the centre. She places the root ball in it, jiggles it and fills it up with soil. And then ties the tie wires that we’ve had in the pot. She first hand ties it and cuts away the excess and then ties it with the jin plier to make sure that there is no slack in the tree.

However, this is a relatively tall tree in the pot and it will need additional support while the roots extend into the new soil after which it will be fine. Towards the end of the video, you will see how we provide the additional support. Adriana is using the jin pliers now to tighten the wire and remove any slack between the soil and the wire. Adriana is topping up the surface with some fresh soil. The soil will provide a new area for fresh roots at the top to grow. After a quick dunking, she is adding a thin layer of sphagnum moss onto the soil.

The sphagnum moss helps with retaining moisture in the pot and also ensures that the topsoil doesn’t run away when you water it. After the sphagnum moss has been done, she will add green moss onto it at a later stage. She now flattens it down with a spatula to have a nice even gradient from the top of the pot to the top of the nebari, the rim of the pot. And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is And it takes a little bit of doing but the end result is a very clean, freshly, nicely done pot. And that’s what we’re looking for. She’s now tying the additional guide wires to ensure that the bonsai is held firmly in the pot so that there is no chance of even the slightest bit of movement once it has settled into it.

Adriana is using jute twine to provide the additional support for the tree and this stage is quite essential. Makes the tree much stronger. If you do not add these guide wires on a tall tree like this, the tree tends to move with the breeze and the watering and its recovery can take much longer. But there we are. Here is the end result of the day’s work.

It’s a nice-looking tree and it will develop into a weeping style as we go along. The top branches will be curved down and wired down or weighted down depending on which approach Adriana takes. Thank you for watching. We hope you liked the video. If you did, give us a thumbs up, otherwise there’s the other thumbs. But either way, do subscribe and we hope to see you again soon. Thank you for watching. This is Mark D’Cruz signing out. .

Bougainvillea Bonsai | Bougainvillea Bonsai Repotting //GREEN PLANTS💚

Welcome to my channel in this video i’m showing bougainvillea bonsai re-potting it’s a two years old bougainvillea bonsai bougainvillea needs to be repotted once every two-three years in springtime now i’m going to repot this bonsai first removing the old soil with a bonsai tool carefully remove the soil and do not hurt the root system next root pruning removing only the outlying and long roots do not prune main root system and also do not prune more than 40% of all roots next potting the bougainvillea in bonsai pot i just place a piece of coco husk to cover the drainage hole then put the new bonsai soil place the plant in center of the pot bonsai pot that will hug the root ball as closely as possible while still allowing some soil for watering then add the bonsai soil and completely cover the root ball with bonsai soil next remove air pockets using a chopstick or any thin stick making sure to fill all the air pockets around the root system next pruning maintenance-pruning to maintain and refine the existing shape of a bonsai prune the branches that have grown out of shape next i just add the stones on top of the soil to keep moisture now continuing leaf pruning prune long shoots using a twig shear remove about 80% of all leaves to grow thicker branches or a thicker trunk remove the flowers at all times but do not prune the branches removing the tips after each blooming cycle will encourage the growth of multiple new shoots this increasing ramifications keep in shade for few days after few days place it in full sunlight area or sunny window site watering use sprayer to watering spray water completely for three days in a week misting is recommended as the tree likes high humidity thanks for watching

01) How to Care for Chinese Elm Bonsai – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series मार्क बोन्साई

My name is Mark D’Cruz of Ma-Ke Bonsai and I’m going to talk to you about Chinese elms and their care. Chinese elms are by far the largest number of bonsai sold in the UK, in Europe and most probably in the world. You can identify Chinese Elms by their small leaves. Their leaves are about two to six centimeters long. They are serrated, they have teeth marks all around the edges, and all the bonsai, the branching can be very very fine, which is what mature Chinese Elms look like and it’s excellent quality. Chinese Elms come in many different sizes from small 15 centimetre ones to medium size, 45 centimetres, to the larger ones which are about two feet tall. You place a Chinese Elm, if it’s going indoors, by a window sill when it needs a lot of light and it can take variations in temperature quite well. If it is grown outdoors, the Chinese Elm is very versatile.

It can be grown from semi shade to full sunny position, and when it’s grown indoors, the watering is minimal but the plant has always to be kept damp but not allowed to dry out and at the same time, not allowed to be waterlogged. If it is outdoors, the watering is a little bit more versatile but again, it doesn’t like being dried out totally or being constantly wet. If it dries out, the tree can very easily shed all its leaves, although it’s a forgiving tree and it will bounce back quite regularly.

Having over watered a Chinese Elm can be quite problematic because it will die slowly and it takes about six months to die and you don’t even know that you’re killing the tree because of over watering. Chinese Elms need to be groomed regularly and you prune it when the leaves have grown to about six or seven leaves long and you cut it back to just leaving two leaf nodes. You feed it every two to, every 15 days, every two weeks, If you’re using a liquid fertiliser If you’re using a solid fertiliser, or a pellet based fertiliser, you’d feed it every two months.

When you repot a Chinese Elm, you use a well draining soil. At Market Bonsai, we tend to use Akadama and Pumice and we use it in the ratio of 2:1. Two parts of Akadama and one part of Pumice Chinese Elms propagate very easily. You can propagate them from cuttings They have a very high success rate of propagating. And that’s how you care for Chinese Elms. .

How to Grow Orange Bonsai | Calamondin Chinese Orange | Bonsai Trees for Beginners //GREEN PLANTS

Growing orange bonsai from air layering these are already prepared orange tree air layerings Cut the air layers, from the bottom of the polyethylene remove the polyethylene be careful do not cut the roots now place the root ball in the pot and fill it with potting soil press it gently and water it after 60 days now ready to re pot this orange plant get the tree out of the pot remove the soil this is the hand made clay pot in this pot now i’m going to repot the orange plant put the stones first layer these stones will provide better drainage to the plant add the bonsai soil fill the soil in half of the pot place the tree in soil place the moss on top of the soil add the stones and cover the soil this helps to keep the soil moisture and also when you are watering to the bonsai tree the stones protect the soil and roots from damages watering to the orange bonsai tree pour the water for every two days after finished re potting

How to make Bonsai tree for Beginners from Garden Center Plants

Making trees or growing your own trees is a very satisfying way of making your collection larger in bonsais. You can grow them from seed, you can even collect them from the wild, you can get them from friends or you can buy a ready-made bonsai. But I think one of the more, or the less talked about areas is to make a bonsai from nursery stock, normal garden centre stock. Selecting trees in the nursery. Well, you start off with some idea of what you want whether you want deciduous or whether you’re after some evergreen trees. But having decided, you go to the relevant sections and try and look for trees that have interest in the trunk or in the foliage or the shape of the tree itself is attractive. Once you’ve identified the tree, then the next step is to try and work with it. So the first thing to do is to take the tree out of the pot. You generally have to thump it out with a mallet or with a wooden block. Hit the sides of the pot and it may just dislodge Once that’s done, use a turntable and then work with a metal chopstick or wooden chopstick to start clearing away soil from the top of the tree to see what kind of nebari you have.

You can work down towards where the nebari is exposed. Once you’ve found the nebari, you look for the front of the tree and the front usually shows off the best movement in the tree. That should give you an idea as to which way the tree is leaning or which way the tree has a lot of character. You then start looking for the structure within the tree so you clear away excess foliage, you clear away excess branches, and when you’ve done that, then you can try and style it by wiring it or shortening some of the branches. The next step after a little while is to choose a suitable pot and then match the pot with the tree.

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How to create a Bonsai tree (DIY)

How to create a Bonsai tree The best way to start your journey into Bonsai art, is to buy a starter kit and grow and train a Bonsai tree yourself. This tree is a Juniper plant which is about four years old. After pruning, wiring and repotting, this was the result. Now let’s start from the beginning by removing the top layer of soil to see where the first roots appear. We carefully lift the tree from its pot and remove loose soil using chopsticks.

Now that we can see where the main roots appear we can decide on the best front of the tree. We also take into consideration the shape and taper of the trunk and the position of the main branches. The next step is to carefully remove any dead branches dangling growth or dead foliage using scissors. This basic cleaning will reveal the structure of the plant helping us in deciding how to design the tree. Before cleaning After cleaning The next step is pruning. To create a more compact design we remove the top of the tree using a concave cutter. This branch will be bent upwards later on and function as the new apex. Pruning is considered the most difficult part of creating a Bonsai tree.

Try to follow our lead or consider enrolling in our “Getting Started with Bonsai course” where we explain the process of Bonsai design in great detail. For the curriculum and a free lesson go to: bonsaiempire.com/courses You can safely prune up to 1/3 of your tree’s foliage. At this point, we are finished pruning the tree and work starts on wiring the branches. We start with wiring the main trunk which is still flexible enough to bend. Carefully wrap wire around the trunk at an angle of 45 degrees holding the wire with one hand, and the trunk with the other. Now we carefully bend the trunk to compact the tree as well as to create a less formal appearance. Next we wire the main branches starting with the lower branches and slowly working our way up to the apex. Try to wire two branches with one piece of wire. Between these two branches make sure to wrap the wire at least once around the trunk for stability.

Hold the branch with one hand, and the wire with the other. Reposition your fingers after each twist to protect the branch. The wire should be thick enough to hold the branch in the desired shape once we bend it. This is the branch that will function as the apex of the tree. Remaining wire can be cut off using a wire cutter. Once you finish wiring the branches, you can start shaping them moving your way up the trunk, towards the apex of the tree. Next we prepare the Bonsai pot before we start repotting. A Bonsai pot should have at least one drainage hole. We attach a mesh to cover this hole with a short piece of wire. We also prepare two long wires which will be used later to attach the tree to the pot.

Next we untangle the roots carefully using chopsticks. Using scissors we prune long roots. We can prune up to 1/3 of the roots if needed. Now we add some soil in the pot. Place the tree slightly off-center in the pot keeping in mind its front and the most beautiful angle for displaying it. Once you are satisfied with the placement attach the tree to the pot using the wires we prepared earlier. Now we add more soil. Use chopsticks to make sure all air-pockets are filled with soil. We have pruned, wired and repotted the tree. So what’s next? First we water the tree. We will wait with fertilizing for a month and make sure that the wires are not damaging the branches after a few months. Before After On our website we offer several online courses including our “Getting Started with Bonsai course” and the “Bonsai Beginners’ Course”. Again, for more information and free lectures go to: bonsaiempire.com/courses .

How to make bonsai Juniper Bonsai from Nursery Stock – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #161

 Welcome to Ma-ke Bonsai. This is Mark D’ Cruz. Today, we’re going to plant juniper that Bogdan has got from a garden centre. He paid 22 pounds for this and he’s planted it in this large garden pot for a couple of years and it’s gained a nice set of roots at the bottom. It’s now ready to be bonsaied, I guess. That’s the phase that we’re looking for. We start by working on the top to find where the nebari is. We turn the tree around to find the right angle. And the nebari will help us determine the right size. On turning the tree around, it was found that these two branches were a little bit on the low side and were not required. We decided to cut them off. And it seems that they got a nice set of roots so we will save them. We wrapped them in some sphagnum moss, tied them into a little bundle ready for repotting at a later stage. Back to pruning the roots away from the top of the sawing. We expose the nebari and work away all the fine roots that are there.

The nebari is the broadest part of the trunk and that’s what we’re looking for. We have a nice big branch that flows to one side so this is going to be a semi cascade kind of tree. We have a couple of low branches which we will remove and make into jins at a later stage. We trim away some of the branches so that we can actually see all the major branches that we will need.

We wire the bigger branches so that we can move them into position at this stage. So, now we’re ready to do some of the finer branches. And we just carry on with this till we got everything. After the wiring, we set the tree in the pot giving it the right angle that we require. We cover it with the bonsai mix which is Akadama and pumice that we use for most of our trees.

This particular size is 3 mm to 6 mm. It helps hold a lot of water so the Juniper likes a lot of water. We use it for the Juniper. Adriana ties the tree inside and then we tighten it with a jin plier. We pull and remove any gaps that that appear. There are a lot of videos that will show you the details on how to repot a bonsai. As with applying moss or with how to wire the bonsai into the pot as well. Adriana’s giving it a quick clean now. That’s always part of the process that we go through. And then we apply green moss on to the tree. I’m now going to be jining the branches that are cut away. I remove all the cambium from the bark from the branch. I split the branch into four and then use the jin plier to strip away bits of it so that it appears that we have a natural break in the trunk.

No cut branches should appear. And there we are. This is the Juniper, nicely potted up. It’s been shaped into a semi cascade style. In a couple of years, we will give it another bit of styling and make it a little bit more in keeping with what we want. Thank you for watching. If you enjoyed the video, please give us a thumbs up. And if not, well there’s the other icon. And do subscribe. We add videos regularly. Thank you. .