basic bonsai tips for beginners

How to repot bonsai trees; why repot bonsai with bonsai tips and tricks; Spring care & work

How to repot bonsai trees and why we repot bonsai trees. I will also share repotting bonsai tips tricks and the odd secret which no one talks about. Make sure that you watch the entire video. Hey it’s me Iqbal Khan, if you have not yet subscribed to mikbonsai then click the subscribe button and hit the bell icon to subscribe and receive notifications as I upload new videos. After pruning, watering and feeding repotting is one of the most important aspects of bonsai to be learned as repoting has to be done on a regular basis it takes years to get it right.

However, what if you are able to remove those hurdles which setback many bonsai enthusiasts by years, even better if we were to reduce that time scale into a couple of seasons. I will show you how. you are about to discover bonsai tips tricks and secrets which will fast-track the development of your trees starting with repotting and sorting out the roots. Bonsai trees need reporting regularly over a period of time. The bonsai soil mix breaks down into fine particles over a number of years, coupled with this the root growth fills up the pot, making it root bound and difficult to water. When this happens you can use the dunking method and to see how that is done there’s a link in the info card which shows you the dunking method. You can continue watering it, using the dunking method until the next repot. The tell-tale signs which give an indication that the tree needs repotting are as follows: one – take the tree out of the pot and see what the root situation is if you see the roots going round and round in the pot, that is first indication that the tree has become root bound.

The other indication is watering, when watering has become difficult due to the soil having broken down. what is a good time to repot ? Ideally February March, in the spring and one of the things which I would like to mention is the acers and maples must be reported in February March, otherwise you have missed the window. Having said that I am going to experiment during the summer months with a cheap maple to see what reporting in the summer does to these trees and if it dies as that’s the price I will have to pay for the experiment.

Spring is also a good time to repot as the tree responds very well to root pruning and pruning of the branches. It has lots of saved up energy and as the growing season kick starts the pruning also helps with the spurt of growth. The tools that I’m going to be using during the repot, you can see by clicking on the info card and there’s a video on bonsai tools. The tree that I’m going to be repoting today is an acer buergerianum, also known as the Trident maple. This is the tree that I’m going to be repotting today. The first thing to do is to take the tree out of its pot. This is an imported tree it came from Japan few years ago it’s been the same training pot and I think it’s time to repot it. So let’s put the training pot to one side and as you can see the roots have gone ground and virtually taken the shape of the inside of the pot right down to where the pot feet were so I will basically start from the top working my way down and it’s going to take quite some time so I’ll press on with this and we’ll catch up shortly.

I have to removed quite a lot of roots and these are really thick roots, not doing anything for the tree, so remove those and just tidy up a little bit more at the bottom and these are root scissors it’s important to keep the root pruning scissors separate from the scissors used for pruning the tree, as these tend to get blunted because of the particles of soil etc that it cuts through, now there’s another thick root here so I’m gonna just take this out and I’m going to bare root this tree so I’m gonna tidy up and we’ll catch up shortly. I have managed to clear the soil as much as I possibly could it was quite hard. The soil had broken down and become very clay like and it’s virtually like a brick and removing it was not easy and I have tidied it up as much of the roots as I can and this is the root structure that I’m going to retain.

I have prepared this pot, at the bottom you can see the wire mesh is secured that with hairpin bends and then these are the anchor wires to secure the tree and and if you want to see how the pot is prepared then on the right hand side of the screen there is an info card, click on that and you’ll be able to see how the pot is prepared and I’m going to start repotting it and I’m going to put this grit aboue the wire mesh and the holes, the grit also helps with the drainage and I’m just going to continue adding this once, bonsai soil. This is actually cat litter it works very well and I also use my own bonsai soil mi. If you want to see how to make bonsai soil mix and again click on the link in the info card on the right of the screen and it will take you to a video which shows how to make bonsai soil mix.

I’ll place the tree in the pot and I’m going to secure it. Right, that should do for now. let’s have a look, …. looks okay, making sure it’s standing straight in the pot and add more of this cat litter. I’ll put a link in the description for this cat litter. This is available only in the UK as it’s manufactured in the EU but if you are abroad you may have your own equivalent it’s a basically clay which is fired to very high temperatures and it becomes what it is, it turns into solid pieces it’s virtually like lava rock. I’m using the chopsticks to drive the soil in between the roots where I have bare rooted the tree so there’s absolutely no soil left and in the roots so this process will drive the soil between the roots and take out air pockets.

It’s going down quite fast as I work my way around and if the air pockets are not removed the roots in the air pocket can dry and the tree can die. That’s the extreme but it’s best to do this and not take any chances so I have finished securing the tree and will now cut off these excess wires from both sides and hide the wires where the twists are and add more soil and finish it off it does need a little bit more soil and then we’ll water it thoroughly I don’t sieve the cat litter, there is very fine dust and it basically comes out on first watering, it needs very very thorough watering and the dust basically just drains out at the bottom and I’ll just remove some of these surface roots, there aren’t very many but just a few, handful.

Right I’m going to again tidy up and we’ll catch up shortly. Well here it is Aacer Buergerianum Trident Maple repotted and now ready to be given a thorough soaking. I will keep watering until the dust has run clear. That’s enough, the waters running clear at the bottom so we’ll stop and let it drain before we carry on. Its all done ! I’ll give it a quick 360 that’s the front and go around this way and I’ll do an update sometime in late spring when it’s in full leaf and back to where we started. That’s the Acer Buergerianum Trident Maple and I’m glad I’ve done it, otherwise it would have been next year. I couldn’t take a chance with repotting this in the summer it’s fairly pricey so but we’ll have a go with one of the cheaper trees.

The reporting is complete and the tree will be watered normally and it will do well in the in its new soil in the new pot. The pot is slightly bigger and I measured up the tree and the pot at its widest point should be 2/3 of the height of the tree from the top of the soil to the apex of the tree whether it’s an oval pot or a round pot if you measure the widest point it should be 2/3 of the height from the top of the soil to the apex.

That’s the rule for choosing the size of the bonsai pot to make sure that your pot is the right size. Now this is one of the things that not many people speak about. This is one of the little secrets that not many people talk about but here it is and now you know how to get your pot size right every time. If you haven’t subscribed then please do so and also ring the bell icon and you’ll then be able to get notification of my updates and you won’t miss anything and you’ll pick up more bonsai tips, tricks and secrets, which I’m here to reveal.

Until the next time. This is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London and now for the afterthought. I usually meet my girlfriend at 12:59 I like that one too one time. you dig . You dig. .

Bonsai Trees – Chinese Elm Bonsai Forest Field Grown Part 3 | mikbonsai | Bonsai Tips

Today I’m working on Chinese Elms, these were field grown in southeast England and the trunks were chopped and they were put together in a group planting I have pruned them previously and today we are going to repeat the process Hello everyone this is Iqbal Khan and today I’m working on this Chinese Elm field grown trees they have been planted in a group planting and I had pruned them a few times and they were just stumps when I started and the branches are coming along quite nicely and also they are thickening up very well. I have made a start and am now working on this side of the tree and these branches I have allowed them to really grow long and then prune them right back that way we end up with thicker branches and the ramification is better so now just going in and removing these thick branches and these again I don’t throw them away I will be propagating these to grow a little Chinese Elm trees so I’ll carry on with this and we’ll catch up shortly.

I have pruned the right hand side and the other side needs to be done. You can see the difference how different it looks the right side compared to the left side so now start working on the other side I have now turned the tree round and I will be working on this area here and I will explain the directional pruning method shortly after I have removed a few more of these branches. I am making very good progress with the pruning and now I will remove this branch from the top and I have explained previously why I let these branches grow so long the idea is if they were only, say this long and I prune them out end up with a very thin branch whereas letting them grow long I end up with a much thicker branch when it’s pruned and now I want to talk about the styling of these trees they will not be wired the branches will not be wired in any way whatsoever and I’ll be using the clip in grow and directional pruning method when the branches grow all the energy goes to the end and the branch gets longer and longer and by reducing it and pruning it the energy which previously went to the leader and pushed it to grow is stopped as soon as this is pruned and the energy then it goes to the node between the leaf and the cut branch and the new growth comes from here and that is called directional pruning if I wanted the new growth to go in this direction I would cut it to here and the new growth will go in the direction that the leaf is pointing.

I have completed the pruning of this group planting and also removed a lot of dead branches and we just zoom out and – that’s the foliage of the tree, is much thinner and lighter and there were quite a lot of dead branches and that was because the light couldn’t get through and now the light will be able to get through and hopefully it will progress on to becoming a decent group planting. This is my field grown Chinese elm group planting of seven trees. I’ll give it a quick turn, that is the front, the taller trees at the front and the smaller ones at the back that’s the back of the trees and that is where started. That’s all for now. Thanks for watching and to watch more please subscribe and ring the bell so you won’t miss anything. This is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London and now for the afterthought last night I went out with the wife for a drink and I said I love you.

She asked is that you or the beer talking. I said it’s me talking to the beer. You dig ! .

Bonsai pot size & Acer Bonsai first repotting: Size does matter.

Today I am reporting this trident maple Acer Buergerianum. hey it’s me it’s me Iqbal Khan, if you have not yet subscribed to mikbonsai then click the subscribe button and hit the bell icon to subscribe and receive notifications as I upload new videos. The tree has been in this same training pot when it arrived couple of years ago it’s an import from Japan and it’s time I repotted it. The pot is too small compared to the size of the tree, the size of the pot in relation to the size of the tree, is to make sure that we are in scale and proportion and the formula is to measure the tree from the top of the pot where it comes out of the soil to the apex and then you take 2/3 of that and that’s the size of your pot at its widest whether it’s oval then you take the maximum width whether it’s circular you take the diameter and if it’s rectangular then the widest side from one end to the other and I have prepared a pot and we will move the tree out of the way and I will bring the pot over.

The pot I have chosen for this tree and have put the mesh at the bottom with hairpin bends which I use and then the anchor wire also have been placed but if you want to learn or see a video on how to prepare the pot in the top right hand corner of the screen is an ” i ” info card for how to prepare a bonsai pot. Click on it and it’ will take you to that video. I have fiddled with the tree back and forth and is quite easy to take out. There it is, its come out quite easily and we’ll put the training path to one side and have a look at the sides and the bottom, and it has roots going right round not only that but also in the training pot there are indentations where the feet are and the roots have actually gone into those spaces as well there is hardly any soil that can be seen.

So I am going to start working at the top using a root rake very very gently and I’ll do that by holding it between my thumb and index finger so if it gets stuck it doesn’t break the roots it just slips through my fingers and I’m going to carry on with this it’ll take quite some time and I’m going to do it very very gently. I will also be bare rooting it and so that’s going to take a little bit of time. it’s a very slow process. I’ve just managed to remove the very top layer of moss and a little bit of soil and I’m still working through it’s taking a long time to get this far. I haven’t completely succeeded in bare rooting it. The roots are very badly tangled up, it’s a big tree in a very small pot. I don’t know how long this tree has been in this pot but we are where we are and I will start sorting it out, again it will take two or three seasons before I can sort the roots out because of what we are starting with and in fact this is a very good reason why it’s a good idea to bare root the trees but you have to be careful as the roots dry out and then the tree is dead.

So have to make sure that the roots are constantly dipped in water or sprayed so that they don’t dry out. I’m going to remove as much of the roots from the bottom as possible and then will to come to the other parts of it. Sort this out for now and what I’ll have to do is repot it not every two years but perhaps every year and that’s the only way I’m going to get these roots sorted. Time doesn’t stop for anyone and it keeps marching and with passage of time comes progress and this bare rooting is a good thing and I’m sure just matter of time that it catches up and becomes a standard. I have given it another blast and cleared more of the soil but I’m now beginning to lose daylight so I’m gonna have to speed up. These are some really thick roots which I’m removing from the bottom and I’m not going to be able to completely bare root it as much as I’ve tried but we’ll have to do the best I can as I said earlier it’ll take a few years before these roots are sorted so I’ll have to repeat this process every year until I’m able to sort the roots out completely.

Now here the roots have gone round the trunk so just pull these off and prune them off. This side, this is quite a large surface root and it’s coming straight out of the trunk I’ll pull the tree up a little bit from the soil and expose more of this and will see how this develops. I’ve removed as much of the roots as I can, do a little bit more and then tidy up and we’ll catch up after that. The tree is ready to go into its pot and I’m going to add grit at the bottom it basically aids drainage and covers up the mesh and then I’m going to top it up with this cat litter. So we’ll place the tree in the pot and I will ease it in on to the soil . I will use these chopsticks to drive the soil into the root ball, well it doesn’t need a great deal, I didn’t completely manage to bare root it but nevertheless fair amount of soil did come off so as I work with the chopsticks its going in quite fast so will carry on with this and we’ll catch up shortly.

I’m at the tail end now just tightening these wires, the anchor wires to secure the tree firmly into the pot that’s nice and tight doesn’t allow the tree to move and I’ve got to be the same from this side so this is basically going across the pot and this was going down the pot, we are done. Now just bury these wires in, in the soil and a little bit more soil I I will add moss to it at some stage but I haven’t got any I’ve got to harvest it. I have it on land that I own in Twickenham. So I’ll be adding the moss at a later date and again the moss is of various types there is some that grows in shade without a Sun and there’s some which only grows in where the Sun shines and for this I will use bit of both because I am going to have it in a semi shade location and I think that should do for now.

Now it is time to give the tree a thorough soaking and there is fair amount of fine dust in the cat litter and on first thorough watering it tends to all come out so fairly quickly and I can already see the water coming out from the bottom and I’ll keep watering it until it runs clear so that’s when the dust is gone. That should do. We’ll take a look at the overall tree Well that’s the tree repotted watered and all it now needs as to be watered normally and it should do very well in the new pot and the new soil and……. and I’ll give it a quick 360 so you can see it from all sides and there we are, Just keep turning it and that’s where we started. That’s all for now, Thanks for watching. This is Iqbal Khan for bonsai in West London, until the next time. and now for the afterthought. They say money can’t buy happiness check this out I bought myself a happy meal.

You dig ! .

Bonsai Trees – Chinese Elm Bonsai Forest Field Grown Part 3 | mikbonsai | Bonsai Tips

Today I’m working on Chinese Elms, these were field grown in southeast England and the trunks were chopped and they were put together in a group planting I have pruned them previously and today we are going to repeat the process Hello everyone this is Iqbal Khan and today I’m working on this Chinese Elm field grown trees they have been planted in a group planting and I had pruned them a few times and they were just stumps when I started and the branches are coming along quite nicely and also they are thickening up very well. I have made a start and am now working on this side of the tree and these branches I have allowed them to really grow long and then prune them right back that way we end up with thicker branches and the ramification is better so now just going in and removing these thick branches and these again I don’t throw them away I will be propagating these to grow a little Chinese Elm trees so I’ll carry on with this and we’ll catch up shortly.

I have pruned the right hand side and the other side needs to be done. You can see the difference how different it looks the right side compared to the left side so now start working on the other side I have now turned the tree round and I will be working on this area here and I will explain the directional pruning method shortly after I have removed a few more of these branches. I am making very good progress with the pruning and now I will remove this branch from the top and I have explained previously why I let these branches grow so long the idea is if they were only, say this long and I prune them out end up with a very thin branch whereas letting them grow long I end up with a much thicker branch when it’s pruned and now I want to talk about the styling of these trees they will not be wired the branches will not be wired in any way whatsoever and I’ll be using the clip in grow and directional pruning method when the branches grow all the energy goes to the end and the branch gets longer and longer and by reducing it and pruning it the energy which previously went to the leader and pushed it to grow is stopped as soon as this is pruned and the energy then it goes to the node between the leaf and the cut branch and the new growth comes from here and that is called directional pruning if I wanted the new growth to go in this direction I would cut it to here and the new growth will go in the direction that the leaf is pointing.

I have completed the pruning of this group planting and also removed a lot of dead branches and we just zoom out and – that’s the foliage of the tree, is much thinner and lighter and there were quite a lot of dead branches and that was because the light couldn’t get through and now the light will be able to get through and hopefully it will progress on to becoming a decent group planting. This is my field grown Chinese elm group planting of seven trees.

I’ll give it a quick turn, that is the front, the taller trees at the front and the smaller ones at the back that’s the back of the trees and that is where started. That’s all for now. Thanks for watching and to watch more please subscribe and ring the bell so you won’t miss anything. This is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London and now for the afterthought last night I went out with the wife for a drink and I said I love you. She asked is that you or the beer talking. I said it’s me talking to the beer. You dig ! .

Bonsai Care and Maintenance Spring Repotting & Pruning hawthorn

Hi spring is here and it’s time to repot and today we are going to be repotting one of my large Hawthorn trees and also pruning the branches. So stay tuned. Hey ! it’s me Iqbal Khan, if you have not yet subscribed to mikbonsai then click the subscribe button and hit the bell icon to subscribe and receive notifications as I upload new videos We’ve made a start and Wojciech is give me a hand, it’s a big tree big pot and first he is removing all the weeds and the ferns. Repotting is a slow business Wojciech has cleared all the weeds and I have removed the fern and tidied up the roots.

We are now ready to get the tree out and here goes! last time it was repotted in pine bark and for that reason is quite easy to take it out, we didn’t wire it and we are going to do the same thing this time round. We have removed a lot of the soil from the top and the sides, Wojciech just started working on the bottom, removing the soil and we hope to bare-root this tree. We are in March and it’s quite wet and is very safe to do that at this time of the year.

We have bare rooted the tree and we are going to give it a quick turn and so you can see from all sides and on cue we have a plane going overhead but we’ll carry on and ignore the plane, so that’s the other side of the tree, that’s front of the tree and that was the back of the Tree. I am going to start reducing these roots they are getting too long, so will cut them back like that, to contain them within the pot and working around the tree just cutting the roots back, that can go right back. This can go up about there, leave the baby roots and again remove the thick ones leaving the small ones, now we are going to remove this very thick root which is little bit high up and there’s another one on the on the right-hand side and we’re going to sort that out as well, so I’ll continue to remove these roots from the bottom and creating nice radial root ball. I’ll remove this as well as it’s a bit thick and leave some of these big ones on and now from this side, in fact this is quite high I’m going go right back and same thing with this one.

The roots are just high up I’m going to remove. Now I’m going to remove these very thick roots, this one is at the bottom so I’m going to go right in and take that out, so that’s out and same thing with this one, I’m going to take that out as much as I can. Tidy up these roots here and I’m going to go as high up as I can, firstly cut it like that upside down using a branch cutter There we are, I’ll probably go a little bit further in. That’s a bit better, as this is crossing so I am definitely remove this one and reduce this one, so firstly we tackle this one and see what’s going on here.

Right will probably leave it at that and this one I’m going to remove completely, is crossing this one so will take it right back where it starts, and that’s gone, I’m now going to shorten this root it’s getting quite nice here but then as it goes down, its sort of turning so I’m going to cut it back to about there leaving these roots at the top. Let’s see how that works. Right there we are, leave these on. Right this is the root which was very fairly high up that we have removed, that was the second one, so I’m going to tidy that up with this knob cutter and go right in and that should sort that out.

We have another root which is going round it’s quite a thick root, so I’m going to remove that and I’m going to use my knob cutter to get to it, but at least it’s cleaned up just looking much more neater than it did before with the root going across. We are now starting to repot the tree and we will first put a layer of pine bark over the grit layer which I, which we placed in the pot earlier and then I’m going to place the tree on top of the pine bark because the tree is sinking into the spot so we want to pull the tree out a bit more and for, with that in mind that’s what needs to happen and then sit the tree in the pot, we can now put more pine bark in. Now I have been pushing the tree back and pushing the pine bark under the tree to straighten it up a bit it was leaning and by straightening it up it gives it a much better look and feel and we’re now going to continue with the soil initially using our hand and then revert back to the chopstick.

Right folks the repotting is complete and now I’m going to work on the upper part of the tree it needs a prune, the branches are all over the place they’re crossing, growing inwards and we are going to be pruning the branches which are going inwards crossing over or going straight up they have got long and leggy so that’s what we are going to do. Right folks I am going to start pruning these long branches here, there is a a little bud here on this branch so I’m going to go right back to about there and the bud is facing upwards so will have a new branch growing from there and this one again is getting too long and will start crossing with this one, so we will basically prune it back there and just below the cut there is a bud which is facing upwards and we’ll have a branch growing up there and the prune this right back to there and there is a bud on this branch facing this way so we’ll get growth along the line of the thicker branch and we will basically remove this lower branch and I’m gonna leave this one for as it is for now and tackle this branch, again this is starting to cross this branch, so I am shorten it about there so that is done.

This branch is going downwards so that can be removed completely and here I’m going to go back to there. There’s a couple of buds here so we’ll have a couple of new branches and this one I’m going to go to about there and again there are a couple of buds here to grow new branches and this branch here I’m going to reduce it to so there, there’s a node there so that would carry on with that these are crossing branches so this will need to be reduced and I’m going to go to there and there is a node there which will basically throw out another branch and same thing with this one, reduce it to back there. There is a node there and this I think we’ll just reduce it to there and this one to about there. There’s a node on that one that’s where the new branch will take off so the lower part of the tree is looking pretty good and working up so we now tackle this branch here I’ll just reduce it to there again there’s a little node here which will take over moving upwards I’m going to remove this branch completely as it’s starting to cross this branch here, so that’s in the wrong place so we get rid of it completely and this branch at the top would need to be reduced, I think I’ll take it back about there and this one is fighting with the other one, this one is going straight down to reduce it to there and this one we will reduce it to there to start with, Yeah we’ll keep it do about that level there and just keep working around the tree.

This again is too long and we’ll reduce it too about there. That’s a bit better and then tackling this branch, we’ll reducing to there and new growth will go in that direction. This branch here is too long to about there to improve ramification and same thing with these branches here and this one again will be reduced to there and this one I’m going to reduce and this one we can take it back right in and this long run branch here, will be reduced to there and just below the cut is the node which will produce a new branch and coming to this one we will go to about there and then working on the apex, which is up here I’m going to cut this right back to there and these are the berries from last year, so I am going to remove these. Just little bit of fine tuning now so I’m just going to reduce this branch, stop it from continuing to go in that direction and same thing with this one just cut it so that the new branch takes over in a different direction same thing with this one here and that will aid ramification and also reduce this branch here.

This branch here, it is basically crossing the lower one so we don’t really need this, so I am going to completely remove this. This is the back of the tree and there’s a reason why I’m showing that, there’s a big trunk chop here and also the way the front was you could see the cut from the front and I’ve moved the tree slightly and as I turned you will see that was the front before where you could see where the chop was and I’ve basically turned the tree slightly making that the front so that the cut is hidden behind this branch here. Now this is the top of the pot where the tree meets the soil and having removed the thick branches and this little knob and I’ll give it a quick turn and also having removed these roots which are really high up it has enhanced the tree enormously and there was also another root up here and having removed these roots high above the soil line, has enhanced the tree the line of the trunk quite considerably and you can see the taper there’s an incredible taper here.

Right folks this is the tree in full view and that is the front I’ll give it a quick 360 so you can see it from all angles. It has been repotte, roots have been sorted, we bare rooted the tree and also gave it a thorough pruning and this will now kick start its growth. I expect it to grow vigorously in the summer months and that is a front and also I have slightly straightened the tree up in the pot before it was leaning too much forward and I’ve lightly pushed it back by and also turned it slightly towards that right and from your angle is to the left so that the cut is then concealed at the back so you don’t see the ugly trunk chop. That’s all for now, this is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London, Until the next time. iI’s very cold outside, it’s been snowing and I have lit a log fire I live in an old Victorian house and I’ve retained all the fireplaces and at times like this it is very comforting and it’s very nice to have a real fire going and as I was lighting the fire it reminded me of a little joke and I will share it with you it’s an afterthought.

When I was young, we were so poor we couldn’t afford heating or a fire like this and we as a family used to sit around a candle and when it got i incredibly cold we would actually light the candle. You dig ! .

Starting a bonsai tree collection from cuttings, nursery plants Part 1

Today I’m going to show you how to start a bonsai collection if you’re on a very tight budge. Hey ! it’s me it Iqbal Khan. If you have not yet subscribed to mikbonsai, then click the subscribe button and hit the bell icon to subscribe and receive notifications as I upload new videos. if you’re new and a beginner in bonsai then you have come to the right place I’m going to show you between five and seven plants first up is this cotoneaster I grew this from a cutting. I didn’t have time and I do that but I’m busy. I take cuttings and I stick them in water and this one rooted. Not every cutting that you stick in water will root but some do and that’s the easiest way of doing it. After it had rooted I planted it straight into this pot and it’s been here, I guess for a couple of years and it’s grown and I need to prune it that’s what it needs desperately and any branches which are going straight up like this one, like this one is going straight up so they have to be reduced to about two sets of leaves and I’m also going to prune this one it’s getting too long and for that reason this has to be pruned and also its called directional pruning and I will prune it with the leaf below the cut and that is the direction in which the new foliage will grow.

I’m going to cut it to about here next I’m going to prune this branch as there’s already a branch on this side I want the new branch to go in this direction so I’ll prune it to a leaf which is pointing to the left so that the new foliage will go in this direction and fill up the space here So I’ll cut it to about there and same thing with this branch here we want the growth to come outwards more to the left as there is space here so we’ll prune it to the last leaf which is pointing to the left, so this one has been pruned. So this is a sort of branch that I would stick in water and all that I have been doing in the past is remove all the leaves, nearly there, and I would just leave the leaves right at the end so leave these leaves on and then this would be stuck in water and that’s how this was grown.

Here we have a couple of parallel branches coming from virtually very… they are very close and so this is a stronger branch so I’m going to keep this and this weaker one which is slightly lower, I’m going to remove this. So we’ll prune that to there, basically where it starts from, then we prune that to there and also remove this foliage which is very close to the main trunk and it basically detract from the trunk so all this foliage is very close to the trunk will be removed and there we have it. This one I’m going to let it grow and thicken and then I’ll probably wire both of these like that, bit later in the season when the tree is going into dormancy and for now it will be put back on the bench and I’ll just remove leaves which have fallen off during my pruning and the leaves I removed from the trunk and also it needs the soil is going down and I think this is from watering.

I’ll just top up the soil and this is then ready to go back in its regular place on the benches, so there we are. I’ll just give it a quick turn and that is the first of the cuttings being made into a bonsai tree and doesn’t look half bad. It’s… it will take a little while… few years before it looks like a bonsai but it’s on its way and that’s the front for now. Next up are these cuttings the one in the terra cotta pot is a cutting which was taken from a jade plant that I pruned, stuck it in water and the full process of rooting these Jake cutting is in a in another video. I’ll include a link in the description box below and after it’s rooted it’s potted up into these terracotta pots and again I’ll leave a link below and the next phase from here is to put them into bonsai pots and that’s what you see here.

So that’s the second way of doing it again from cuttings doesn’t cost very much and these terracotta pots are about 35 pence and the start of a bonsai, This one particularly is a start of a small bonsai. There’s the larch, again this was bought for a few pounds at a local supermarket and it’s still in its original pot and I think its coming along quite nicely. I have just pruned it and removed some branches and that’s all I’ve done basically clip and grow and I will report it next spring and I will give it a quick 360 and that’s the front. This is another Cotoneaster again grown from cuttings and it’s gone absolutely crazy I have not touched it for, I think about maybe three years two or three years can’t remember and what I’m going to do is, it needs a quick tidy up so I’m going to reduce these branches quite considerably and we will use these to grow more and the ones which are going straight up like these ones, will be reduced same thing that to there and that one possibly to there, that one to there and these branches again reduce them here and here and I’m going to wire it to try and change the shape.

Dig this wire deep into the soil and then wrap it around the tree so I’m going to hold this with it with a plier and then bend the wire around the tree and from here on use my finger to support the bending of the wire, try and create a little bit more of a shape, is going in one direction so I want to try and create a little bit more of a movement as opposed to ending up with a wind swept the wire has to be wrapped around the tree at or a branch at 45° angle and making sure that we move the foliage aside like this branch and the little berry out of the way and the wire would then go in the blank space and this is how it’s done so hold the wire that’s already been wound up and move the foliage and at 45 degrees angle there we are so that’s going in and its then continued on to the next part which is moving this branch out of the way so if I just do that, move it down and holding the wired part between my thumb and finger, the forefinger and go right round that way, that parts done and repeat the process, we take it like that to there and I’m going to also remove the leaves which are on the main trunk or too close to the trunk some of them are on the primary branches but too close so they are being removed and to create a more mature look that way, up here is very busy so I’m going to tidy this up as much as I can removing too many branches close together removing those.

That’s fine, thats too low and to close, that comes off. As is this one here and looking at it from here, there are these leaves too close to the main trunk and there’s this one. Although this is quite small but it still matters that we try and follow the principles and apply the principles to irrespective of the size of the tree and some of the rules are meant to be broken but there some which you cannot get away with and the juvenile folders in the trunk is one of them. I’m going to tidy up a little bit more there are two branches here so I’m going to remove this lower one and basically it’s the branches have to be spread out and – too close doesn’t look right and again this one I’m going to remove it’s forming a ‘T’ with that one so this one will be removed and this one I’m going to shorten to about there and then I’ll wire it so that it basically, I’ll take it to the back like, like this so the tree starts becoming three dimensional.

At the moment is just front and sides so this I will wire to the back and it will go there, and up here again this is going straight up so we’ll reduce that to there to encourage new growth to go sideways and I think up here also I need to shorten it. I’m going to shorten it because they’re virtually the same sort of size, so we start to have more of an apex.

And this again will reduce it a bit more to about there. Just trying to decide what to do with this I think there’s this branch I will let it grow and we will then wire it to the back to create a back branch. I think that’s all for now. I’m just going to tidy up the pot a little bit it’s all the leaves have fallen in as I’ve pruned so that’s another Cotoneaster made from cuttings and it will go back on the benches. I’m gonna top up the soil on this one as well. In the pot it’s also the fertilizer is sitting right at the top so cover up the fertilizer. I’m giving it a little bit more of a bend in the trunk and create a little bit more interest Also I’m going to twist the trunk to create more of a, the other side of the tree. There we are, that’s a bit better.

I’ll give it a quick 360 There we are. At the next repot I will naturally need to reposition it to get the front at the moment because it was just growing and the front is usually chosen when the tree is ready for putting it in its first bonsai pot this is the recycled part that I’d used so that’s the cotoneaster the second one and the pruning that I have taken, I’ll be tidying those up and sticking them in water and hopefully they will take root as this one did and the previous one did. Next is a Chinese quince again grown from cuttings. This was taken from cuttings that came out as a result of pruning of my Chinese quince and they were stuck in water and they root quite easily and again this very very straight, this trunk it’s very thin and so this is the time to get a little bit more of a shape so wired the trunk and I’m going to sort of try and give it a little bit more of a shape and basically create more interest in the trunk and also reduce the height in the process.

Right there we are I’m not going to do very much more that should be enough just to secure the end and this basically reduced the height of the tree and that’s the tree created from cuttings. Thanks for watching that is to be continued in part 2 be sure to watch it that’s all for now. This is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London See you shortly. and now for the afterthought last week I went to see my doctor and she said what can I do for you Mr. Khan ? I explained that I was having a lot of trouble with young women and that they were all throwing themselves at me and I was having to fight them off and the doctor said what do you expect me to do ? and I said break my arms. You dig ! .