How to make bonsai with grow Aparajita plant ( with English subtitle )

Hello Friends This is a white Aparajita plant I have first planted in soil see how beautiful the plant is now I have decided the plant with its root collect from the soil and will create bonsai. For that I have cut down the upper portion. To make a bonsai no long root should be kept Thats why I am cutting down the long roots. Firstly the plant is placed in a simple cement pot. 8 inch size pot Its a home made cement concrete pot While planting the plant I am using bonsai soil to have better water drainage After pouring some soil so that the roots get covered water is poured into the pot After 30 days new leaves are grown, that means the plant is growing properly its a vine plant so every time the vine should be cut off now see they are being cut off when the plant will become older then the quantity of vine will be less then it will behave like normal plant there were two thick branches one of them has become dry from the middle so I am cutting it down after 45 days The growth of the plant has decreased since the plant has become yellowish I am applying fertilizer to the soil cow dung Instead of this you can use compost also the upper part of the soil slowly the fertilizer should be mixed so that it does not hurt the root even the growth of the plant is slowing down, there are some flower like this you have to apply fertilizer for every 15 days interval After 60 days as I have applied fertilizer some part of the plant is growing nicely they have become greener now I an going to change the shape of the pant so I am doing the wiring The wire which I am using for wiring that is 6 mm aluminium wire.

the vine part should be cut off regularly If you keep lesser quantity of leaves in summer season the plant can survive with less water after 6 month it have been 6 month now the plant need to be transfer to the bonsai pot For that reason the soil is being remove from the root not the whole I have kept some soil attached to the plant so that the root not get hurt as I have used bonsai soil in the beginning. see its a terracotta bonsai pot terracotta on the drainage hole I have placed broken terracotta pot pieces with that some small gravels so that the hole did not get jammed due to the soil this is also bonsai soil with mixture of cow dung the color of the soil is blackish little wet also after placing the plant soil is poured so that the root get covered. bonsai soil after filling with soil some part is left if needed later we can use fertilizer now applying some water thank you for watching this video .

Turn Apple Seeds Into A Tree

Hey guys it’s good to see you again I’m back today with the fun and simple little experiments that you can try at home the only materials are going to need for this project are an apple a knife a ziplock bag and some paper towel now for this project today I thought it’d be fun to see if we could actually sprout an apple seed now when you were a kid there’s a good chance your parents told you not to eat apple seeds or swallow watermelon seed because it would sprout a tree in your stomach but that’s not necessarily true because there’s quite a process to getting a seed to sprout and that is the purpose of this experiment today now to get started we need to extract the seeds from our Apple and so you could just eat it and pull the seeds out as you do or you could grab a knife and cut very carefully at a 45 degree angle to the center okay so once you’ve got your seeds separated from the apples go ahead and grab one sheet of paper towel and something like this little water mixture all we’re going to do is take our paper towel we’re going to fold it in half lengthwise and set it down the counter we’re going to use our little mixture to give it five to six sprays on one side then flip it over and give it five to six shots on the other side the goal is we want to get this things damp but we don’t want it to be wet all right with our paper towel moistened we can go ahead and take a few of our apple seeds and place them down into a line somewhere in the top half area the only thing left to do after that is to fold the paper towel in half over top of the seeds place it into the ziplock bag and seal it tight so there we have a guys just like that we now have five of our apple seeds tucked away inside with moist paper towel and locked into the block bag by the way it’s not a bad idea to mark the date under the bag so you know when the three weeks is up the only thing left to do now is to tuck this away deep into the back of our fridge and completely forget about it for the next three weeks now it’s just magic of editing we fast forward into the future three weeks with a simple clap of our hand boom here we are three weeks later let’s go check our result all right I’m actually really curious to see what we got here this bag has done nothing but sit in that fridge for three weeks in the dark completely in neglect didn’t the first thing I notice is the paper towel is actually still quite moist still quite down which would make sense because it was in a sealed ziplock bag all right let’s peel back the top layer until we’ve got oh my goodness look at that our seeds have actually sprouted some more than others these two over here seem to have taken off quite vigorously and viciously and these two over here you can see little sprouts and this one’s got a little blood coming out there as well all five of our seeds was sprouted which i think is pretty cool and now if we wanted to we could move these things to a seed starter to help them establish some roots and begin budding into a tree and if we wanted to we could actually grow them into apple trees which is kind of mind-blowing but I have to crush your expectation even if you put years and years of effort into growing your own apple tree the chances of your apples tasting like the one you grew this from are very very slim the reason is because in our industry today most of the apples are grafted onto existing root structures so even though you use the seeds from an apple you like the apples you grow from it will taste completely different so there you have it guys now you know how to take the seeds right out of the apples you’re eating stick them in the fridge for a few weeks and grow an apple tree right in your own backyard thanks for joining me for this experiment I’ll be looking for the next one talk to you then so though but now you know what the paper towels for hey guys thanks for watching and remember I’m giving away prizes now on every new video all you have to do to qualify is subscribed to my channel ring the bell and select to be notified when my next videos get released the secret link to my giveaways will be pinned in the comments for the first 12 hours if you like what I’m doing show your support right now by giving this video a big thumbs up and share with a friend I love you back I’ll see you next time

Bonsai Blue Star Juniper Pruning

This is Iqbal Khan and this is day two that I’ve been working on this blue star juniper, it’s summer pruning and also removing old needles which have browned off from the previous year and once the brown needles are removed it exposes the new branches, that’s how the branches form. I will carry on with this and I wil try and zoom in to show you exactly what’s going on. basically this entire section was covered in dead needles and I’ve removed them with these tweezers and you can now see how this forms a branch also growth which is growing downwards has to be removed and so I’m going to remove that bit there, that one will also be removed as it’s going south and that one as well so now we have a very clean line here so that’s basically the idea behind pruning these blue star junipers. There’s a little knob here which I’m going to remove and basically again make it into a straight line, there we are that’s the knob removed from there, same thing with this branch here, these are the dead needles from previous year which I’m removing by pulling them in the direction of growth so so as not to take off any of the surface area of the bark and same thing on the other side remove these dead needles you can now see the cleaned up part, here is how the branches form.

Now I’m going to tackle this section here and I’m going to remove this branch which is going south and we do that with pair of scissors just like that. That’s come off and the rest of it I’m going to clean up with tweezers removing these dead needles to expose the new branch and again the end is dead so we simply pull it and it’s removed, there and same applies to, there’s a dead stump here so remove that dead stump with that come a… let’s now clean up this part here remove the dead needles and the dead bit at the top so is simply…. the dead bit at the top is simply pinch and removed and same thing with the next one, just fell off so that, that is done I am slowly working my way up the tree and on this branch we’re going to remove this growth which is growing downwards and also here there are too many dead branches so I’m going to remove these little knobs and clean it up That’s a bit better and again there is more growth going downward so this will come off and then there is another, this branch here there is a lot of growth growing downwards so we’re going to remove all this growth which is growing downwards and until we are left with a clean line at the bottom there we are that’s cleaned it up you can see is a clean line at the bottom now and we’ll quickly remove the dead needles on this branch.

Now working on this part they are all these dead needles so I’m going to remove all these and expose the what now becomes a branch there we are that part there and I’ll work on the next part and these are all the brown needles that you can see some at the bottom some facing away from the camera. I will do all those right now so now we move on to another of these branches and continue removing these brown dead needles from previous year’s growth right there we are, that’s all done. There is this downward pointing growth which I’ll remove this end is dead so I am going to remove that more downward-pointing growth which I am going to cut off from here. It is starting to drizzle slightly so I will have to stop now and finish the crown off another time but if any of you have one of these blue star junipers then you need to remove the dead needles in August / September and also prune any growth growing downwards upwards crossing or inwards I’ll give the tree a quick turn and you can see it’s much greener than when I first started there Brown dead needles everywhere and that’s what forms the new branches and that’s where we started.

Thanks for watching to watch more please subscribe and hit that Bell and you’ll receive notifications of all my uploads. This is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London until the next time, and now for the afterthought the teacher said to the class give me a sentence with the word dandelion in it. A Jamaican student stood up and said de cheetah runs faster than de Lion. You dig ! .

Styling bonsai tree from yamadori Lonicera collected raw material – Tree 2 – Part 4 by mikbonsai

I’m going to wire them so that these two branches like this one will move up a bit and this will move down a bit so that they become one great big pad both these branches have been widened I’m going to lower this one and raise this one lower this one slightly and we do it again by bending the wire using strength of the wire to bend it and this one’s being wrote up so they basically are looking starting to look more of a pad as opposed to being at different levels and these again and we reduced but this one I’m going to leave as is this one I think I will wire this up these two up and this one I’m going to do choir up and move it a little bit towards the camera and this one also would wire it and bring it down so the crown is more pronounced so now we will continue with this wire and this unwinding in the anti-clockwise direction and sticking very close to the branch and at a 45 degree just wire it avoiding the foliage and round it goes moving the father’s out of the way now working with the wire that of the brows that have just been wired I’m just going to bend it very very gently using the strength of the wire and then I’m gonna straighten it up from this end is starting to point downwards which I don’t want no salt quite I’m not sure dude I’ve already started wiring this branch and we continue in a clockwise direction and as it’s going to be bent in the clockwise direction so again avoiding any foliage – just wouldn’t work some of these branches are quite good and I want to retain those so except it was out of the way so positioning this where there wasn’t a pad before and so that’s that’s done that’s right nicely positioned and just shooting a few more of the branches as they are little bit too longer and we’ll see if I can do something with this one to lower this just a few centimetres perhaps an inch or so and we’ll Y trying to wire this as well now continuing to wire this pad just moving away the foliage and the branches very congested here have to use tweezers to get them out of the way some of the branches are very very fine that’ll do bend it towards the camera downwards and towards the camera so do it very very gently it’s a very thick branch and this is two things one is down and then one is towards the camera now I want to do it very very gently as they break very very brittle and they break very very easily right there we have it I’m gonna shorten this as and now shorten these branches as as bad is about this pad the lower pad is much bigger so the upper part has got to be slightly shorter and in fact we will do the same with the pads higher up so I’m going to cut this wire back to mark here and reduce this so removing paw the white partially as this part is too is too long so you’re going to reduce it to about there so reduce that to up there it was much longer and and see lots of these paths I’m going to reduce now that it’s starting to take shape this is the time to do a bit of tidy up not too sure about this branch here but we’ll leave it for now it can always be removed later because this looks quite neat and tidy and then there’s this one or a sound so I’d me I’m tempted to remove this this branch we will take it out now and it’s done then I think it looks better without that launch and this is a potential this is also a potential front and so this interesting bit here the double trunk and then fusing up here and I have removed a very big branch from here earlier that was when I first worked on it give me a quick turn and that’s the button of our front as well I will continue to grow it in this pot for a while this is a foliage that we’ve taken off today quite a lot just reveal the bonsai that was hiding unrolled all that voltage I have done fair amount and I’m pleased with the progress that I have made with this tree the this was a leader previously which I have managed to wire and turn into a small pot and this one may be the new leader basically it is no growing is thinner and also there’s a fair amount of growth up here and it’ll be far easier to form a crown with this as well and with that just finish giving it a quick turn and that’s very storage although that could be the front but on this side there’s a big contract removed a very big drought when I first started but we’ll see how it develops that’s all for now thank you watching watch more please subscribe the second account forming bonsai in Westland

How to Decorate Your Pots | Bonsai Pots Decoration | Simple DIY Ideas //GREEN PLANTS

Welcome to my channel in this video i’m going to show you bonsai pots decorations or decorating your any pots now starting it’s a cement bonsai pot i’m going to decorate this pot first sanding the outer surface making the smooth surface to slightly coarse or scratch surface after sanding the outer surface next it’s a cement paste i’m going to use this paste to decorate my pot preparing the cement paste i just mix the cement and water only make a thick paste now starting to decorate I’m decorating this pot in my idea painting i just paint this pot using poster paint after base painting wait for an hour to dry i just apply the gold paint for more beauty thanks for watching & subscribe , like and share

Bonsai Repotting – Bonsai Trees for Beginners Series #04

Hello my name is Mark D’Cruz of Ma-Ke Bonsai and with me is Jonny Gires. Today we’re going to demonstrate how to repot a bonsai (Ligistrum sinense) We have chosen a Turquoise blue pot to replace the last pot. I’m going to talk a bit about the tools we are going to use. To start off with we have a spatula to help firm down the bonsai soil we then have a jin plier and wire cutter the wire cutter is to help with remove wires that bind the tree into the pot and to replace it with new wire ties finally tie the bonsai into the pot… the sickle is very important tool because more often than not you have to the bonsai out of the pot then we have two little brushes or rather three little brushes that help us with the tidiness and cleanliness of the pot. the the plastic brushes used to clean the bark, the metal brush is use to clean the pot the coco brush is used to tidy up the surface of the pot once we have repotting it and here we have two set of scissors to help us with cutting the roots We have a root cutter this one to cut the finer roots they are very, very sharp and very strong umm..

Here we have a root cutter to cut off heavier roots within the bonsai and one of the most important tools as far as we are concerned is… what we call a bidder, its just a piece of metal some thing like a metal chopstick the chopstick that helps us with the clearing the top of the root surface the pot has a curved surface surface so it the site has got in between the the soil has got under the lip of the pot so we cannot just pull it out off the pot so we are going to going to do is cut off the bonsai from the pot this requires a bit of strenght and we are using a sickle to help us with the cutting of the soil if the root-ball is not coming out use a chop stick to help prise it out you can see the roots are massed up and it definitely needs to be repotted. as you can see there’s a substantial amount of roots, some we have already removed from the root-ball but we still have a bit more to remove cut away the roots that were removed by the sickle so first of all Johnny is going to start by clearing of the soil Johnny is going to clean the moss that is on the bark the soft nylon brush ensures the bark is not damaged but it removes all the moss that may have collected Johnny is going to remove half to 1 cm of soils from the bottom so any excessively long root are removed and cut away so we have a clean root ball at the bottom Next thing Johnny is going to do is cut out the excess root ball to fit the new pot Use the dibber to mark all round the root-ball, making sure it is centered in the pot and make sure the bonsai is centered in the pot and now its fits absolutely comfortably in the pot with enough room to accommodate the new soil For the repotting we use a special bonsai mix which in this case is a mixture of Akadama and Pumice the grain size is between 3mm and 6mm and as you can see it is a very granular mixture Place a thin layer of mix at the bottom of the pot place the bonsai on it and jiggle around till you get it in the centre of the pot the trunk has to be absolutely vertical in all directions vertical from the front and vertical from the side fill more soil in to the pot and use a rubber mallet to settle the soil into the pot this is a rubber mallet that has been softened by boiling in water we need to ensure that the tree is firmly in the pot we test by moving the trunk, if the pot and trunk move together we know the tree is firmly in the pot.

the next step is to use the spatula to firm the soil in moving all around the the pot The final step is to bind the tree into the pot with the wire is bound from one end to the other end and tightened with the jin pliers twisting it clockwise while binding the wires ensure that that they are not tied in the middle of the pot but on the far extremes of the pot as we we’ve done these two, you then cut of any excess what making sure that there is not much of a tail left Johnny then water the pot by giving it a dunking in a tub of water pot rim stays just above the surface of the water and the water rises into the pot from below and you should soon see it at the top of the pot lift the pot up and let excess water drain out Last step in in repotting is to cover the surface with with a thin layer of dried sphagnum moss the sphagnum moss protects surface root of the bonsai by not letting the pot do it too fast the last bit to do, is to ensure that the pot is cleaned up and polished Here we have Camellia Oil and an emery rubber that helps with cleaning up and finishing off the pot and that’s how we Repot A Bonsai Tree

Bonsai Soil Tests: Part 1: Water Retention

Welcome to Appalachian Bonsai. This video is one of a series to discuss soil components and some of their properties as they pertain to bonsai. These components are what we’re available to me at this particular time. What’s available to you may vary by region or by country. When it comes to bonsai soil no two person’s soil mixtures are alike. Each soil mixture depends upon the species, the climate, and the person who’s using them. I hope that just seeing these components in testing will allow you to make choices for your own.

Thanks for watching. Today, we’re going to look at water retention and a little bit on drainage. All plants need water so let’s see how much water these components hold. Both organic and inorganic materials were considered. Just because something holds moisture doesn’t make it good. Conversely, just because it might not absorb moisture doesn’t make it bad. I began by measuring equal volumes of each component and measured their dry weight for reference. Next, I added distilled water to each type and let it soak for one hour. This should allow plenty of time for each type of soil to fully saturate.

After an hour, the components are removed from the water and allowed to drain. Each is weighed out over time to calculate retention. Let’s see the differences. We’ll begin with organic materials. Coconut coir is commonly used in flower baskets and hydroponics. It is sold in brick form and soaks up water like a sponge. It fills the entire cup. That’s a lot of water! But, all available space is filled, which isn’t necessarily good for bonsai. We’ll will look more on that type of drainage in another video. After draining for an hour and 45 minutes, we weighed each sample. We weighed the samples again 3.5 hours later.

By comparing the different weights, we are able to determine the amount of water retained, and a basic percentage of loss. At 129 grams of water retained, plus minimal loss, Coconut Coir ranks number one in organic material water retention. This is mushroom compost I bought in bags at my local nursery. It is damp at purchase time, so I oven-dried it before I used it. Small twigs and sand may be present, and the content will vary depending on where you purchase.

It drains well and has a slight alkalinity. I’ll do a video on pH at a later date. At 26 grams of water retained and 31.5% lost, Compost comes in at number three with water retention for organic material. Sphagnum moss is found in cooler damper regions of the world and is known to hold moisture very well. However, in the United States commercially available peat moss comes in a fine kiln dry powder.

Unlike fresh sphagnum. In this processed form it does not whet easily, much like baking flour. More information will be available in a future video. You can see it has absorbed very little water, and is actually floating on top. If powdered peat moss in a soil mix is allowed to dry out potential dead zones may occur. If it is saturated, powdered peat moss will hold plenty of moisture, but for this test, it did not perform well. After draining for five and a quarter hour, peat moss only held six grams of water with 40% loss. It ranks number four on the organic list. Pine bark and fir bark are fan favorites in the bonsai world. I have pine bark available in my region.

Here, pine bark chips can be sold as soil conditioner. I sift it to a proper size and put the rest in the garden. Sifted bark drains well and holds good moisture. Beneficial microorganisms like bacteria can thrive in these porous structures. As a quick note, pine bark is on the acidic side. At retaining 22 grams of water at a 14.8% loss, pine bark comes in at number two in organic water retention. Let’s look at the Inorganic materials and aggregates. Akadama is the classic gold standard of Japanese bonsai mixtures. Here in most of the U.S., it is expensive and not readily available. It is often purchased online or at dedicated bonsai nurseries. Its large particle size drains well and its porosity absorbs and retains moisture. Because of the expense and its scarcity outside of Japan, people around the world look for alternatives to akadama. With water retention of 22 grams at a 26.6% loss, Akadama ranks number two overall in inorganic material.

Diatomaceous Earth, or diatomite, is a lightweight fossilized clay that is used as an absorbent in kitty litter and oil dry. This product needs to be sifted well before use. It also compacts and breaks down over time. We will look at that in another video. Like Akadama, it absorbs and retains moisture very well, and in fact, retains more water than akadama. At 37 grams of water retained with 30% loss, Diatomaceous Earth comes in at number one overall ranking, Chicken grit or granite chips is a popular aggregate in soil mixtures. Its popularity stems from its excellent drainage, its inert structure, and it’s pretty cheap. It’s also one of the heaviest components used. The color depends on the quarry, and for the most part is non-porous and absorbs little water. Most of the water retained is merely from surface tension. With only one gram of water retained and a 94.4% loss, Granite chips ranked last in our list of inorganic materials. Expanded shale is becoming more available as a soil component because of its ability to prevent compaction. It has a semi porous structure and can absorb some moisture.

The large particle size I had available to me drains very well. It has a good color, too. Unlike some other expanded materials this one does not break down easily over time. With only two grams of water and 84.6% loss Expanded shale ranks number nine on the inorganic list. Lava-Rock, which is sometimes known as scoria, is a hard yet porous material with excellent drainage. Its large pores absorb some moisture and can house beneficial bacteria. It also has a pretty color which makes it a good choice for top dressing. Similar to expanded shale and granite, it can last a long time without breaking down.

But 4 grams of water at 76% loss, Lava Rock or Scoria ranks number eight overall in inorganic material. Perlite is a type of volcanic glass that is expanded with high heat. It is common in growing mediums here in the U.S. Its porous structure allows it to float. Much like lava rock and granite, most of the water retained is through surface tension. Also like these other components, It does not break down easily over time One of the problems for bonsai is its stark white color. This usually means it’s only used for training trees and not for formal presentations. At 14 grams of water and 36% loss this product ranks number six on our list. Pumice is a less dense, but more porous variety of Lava Rock.

It, like processed perlite, will float. Like nearly all materials that you use in bonsai, you need to make sure that you sift it and wash it well before you use it. It drains well, and it’s similar to Akadama and its ability to hold and retain good moisture. With 22 grams of water retained and only 29% loss, Pumice holds the number three rank for inorganic material. Sand is one of the most available components around the world. It’s also the heaviest of the components that we tested. Small grains of sand can easily block drainage, so it must be sifted well before use. Sand also drains very well, but the majority of the moisture held within it is from surface tension and not from absorption.

With 12 grams of moisture retained in 67.5% loss, Sand ranks number seven on our list. Turface is a type of Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate or L.E.C.A. It is one of the most common Bonsai soil mediums used outside of Japan. It readily absorbs moisture, but like all of these components, it does have some drawbacks that will be discussed later in another video. Turface drains well and has a very good color. Though it’s relatively stable, it can break down over time. Turface held 30 grams of water with 36% loss.

This ranks at number 4 on our Inorganic list. Vermiculite is sold in various forms, including this expanded type. It’s most common use in the gardening world is to break up clay soils. Its use in bonsai depends upon the person. Even though it floats along the surface it does absorb moisture without becoming soggy. There is potential for vermiculite’s small size to clog drainage. Because of its 28 grams of retention with 41.6% loss, Vermiculite comes in at number five. Bees. Again, this is not a full list of components used for bonsai soil mixtures, but what we’re available to me at this time.

I have more tests to show you so stick around. Leave a comment in the section below about what types of tests you’d like to see me perform in the future. If you haven’t already, Follow us on Facebook or Instagram Stay tuned… There’s always more to come! Thanks for watching!! .

How to grow raft style bonsai; Grow more Bonsai Trees | raft and broom styles | mikbonsai Part 2

Today we are going to do a review of the English Elm which I air layered and made it into two trees. The actual tree which was air layered and the bottom part was to be grown as a raft style. Hello everyone this is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai and firstly I’m going to work on the lower half. The pot is very badly filled with weeds and I’m going to clean the pot up and the upper part it has been growing quite vigorously and a little bit of thinning is in order and that’s what we’ll be doing in the first part. In the second part I will be showing you the upper part of the tree. What you see here is all weeds it’s really full of weeds so I going to clean it up, I haven’t touched it since the time the air layer was removed.

So it’s far easier just to take the top layer of the soil out with the weeds and then top it up with more soil if necessary and I’m going to remove all this and that is the easiest way of cleaning this pot, so I’m going to go under the foliage and again use tweezers to pick out the weeds and I’m going to completely make it weed free and after that we will go into thinning the foliage and making sure that we only retain those trunks which will be necessary to the design, perhaps, maybe a few more and we’ll refine it at a future date but for today certainly some thinning will be necessary and so work on this part now and basically just lift it and the whole thing just comes apart because the weeds are so thick and intertwined that is quite easy to take it all up like that this is done and there’s some thick weeds taking those out by hand so this part is done as you can see and I will continue and we will catch up shortly right folks, I have cleaned up the pot and I’ll just turn, turn it a bit over so you can see all the weeds have been removed and it’s looking much better already that’s the other side and what we are now going to do is do some detail work on it I’m starting to work from this end of the pot and we will work right round and here this appears to be a little so sort of a tree, which is going to be a little tree with the root system of its own and this part is dead so I’m going to remove the dead part up to about there that’s all that’s necessary now and will the rest of it to grow and recover and next March when we do further work on it and we will separate this from the rest of the tree and also I’m going to thin it out a bit.

There are too many little branches which are going to turn into trunks coming out from the same spot so I’m going to remove this one and just leave this one and likewise here there are again quite a few, theres about three or four. I am going to remove all except one and so we’ll remove the one on the inside. I’ll remove down on the inside and it basically thins it out and also allows more light to get through normally we remove the stronger ones and keep the weak ones but in this instance as we are growing from scratch we keep the larger one, and there’s another very weak one down here so we take that one out and very small another tiny one which we take out again this has opened up this part of the raft style and now coming to this side, remove the very thin weedy ones, retain these thicker and bigger ones, right we’ve cleaned up the pot, we have thinned the branches which are going to be future trunks and I’m now going to top up the soil we removed quite a lot of soil and I’m using the cat litter which a lot of you’re familiar with and that’s what I’m going to use to top up where we’ve removed the soil a lot of it came out to the weeds and it’s far quicker and efficient to do it that way then try and remove each weed individually okay so this soil is all down and I’ll give it a quick turns so you can see what it looks like There we are folks the top of the pot cleaned up of all weeds topped up with fresh soil and the little trunks which are very very thin and weedy at the moment have been thinned and that is going to be the front.

I’ll give it a quick 360 that’s the back and that is where we started. The other thought that I’ve had is when we pot this next March we are going to reduce the root ball quite considerably and also there are a lot of these ugly roots we will remove those and make it much tighter. You can see how tidy and neat it looks. This is a Korean mica pot and it’s cleaned up quite nicely Right folks that’s the raft style from the bottom half of the air layered English Elm. I have cleaned up the pot and it’s going to go back to its spot on the bench and I do keep turning it every now and then to make sure that the growth is even and we will look at it again next March. This is the English Elm, the upper part which was a layered and separated from the, from its base and it was potted up and if simply left it to grow its recovered from the work that we did on it and over winter months there are a few branches would need to be wired and placed in a different position and I’ll be also doing some reduction work on the branch to pull them in and improve ramification at the moment the branches are too thick and spread all over the place and as we speak I’m giving it a slow 360 and just seeing a cobweb which I’ve removed and this is the front.

That’s all for now. Thanks for watching this is Iqbal Khan for mikbonsai in West London and now for the afterthought why don’t cannibals eat divorced women ? because they are bitter. You dig ! .

ABC TV | How To Make A Bonsai Tree From Copper Wire – Craft Tutorial #1

Locate tree stumps, pins with copper wire split more help to easy twist over creating twist more will make them beautiful better the first branch be located about 1/3 of the stem height from the tree stump split copper wire strand to 3 parts, first branch is 1 part of wire, the remaining stem is 2 parts. the second branch is about 1/3 from the first branch to the tree top continue split copper wire strand to 3 parts, second branch is 1 part of wire, the remaining stem is 2 parts. the third branch is 1/3 from the second branch to the tree top and continue split copper wire strand to 3 parts, third branch is 1 part of wire, the remaining stem is 2 parts. the fourth branch is 1/3 from the third branch to the tree top and continue split copper wire strand to 3 parts, third fourth is 1 part of wire, the remaining stem is 2 parts.

continue rules with to fifth branch viewed down from the tree top, branches should alternately alternate in a vortex 1st branch and 2nd branch generates 120 degrees, 2nd branch and 3rd branch generates 120 degrees,similar to the remaining branches shape trunk to inclined forward stump diameter ( A ) tree height is 6 times the tree stump diameter (A). edit stump diameter to suitable better apply same rules with small branch on the main branch branch connected stems should be down make foliage The roots should be pulled out width of roots ( B ) about 2/3 width of foliage zones thank for watching .

Bonsai Art & Care |Austin Bonsai Society |Central Texas Gardener

The ancient art of bonsai live strong under Elaine’s heirloom trees. A member of the Austin Bonsai Society and founder of the Texas State Bonsai Exhibit, she shares her love and knowledge behind the cultivation of these miniature living sculptures. She discovered their spiritual connection to nature when her husband was stationed in Japan. – And so I took a class there, and since my husband is Air Force, we moved 18 times, and I didn’t get to do that much until we settled here.

He retired, and then I could do my hobby. – As I was a very very young child, my parents in the military lived in Hawaii and went to a sushi restaurant. On the top floor, there was a bonsai display, and I remember at the age of about 3 years old – tiny child walking up and looking up into these bonsai trees and wondering that they were huge but they were small.

– I’ve been involved in bonsai for about five years, but the interest began all the way in elementary school. – After college, he got back into bonsai, tending them on this patio. – People with art degrees love it. Young people are getting more involved in bonsai because it’s a focused art, and it’s a creation, and you tell a story. – The story behind this would be that perhaps there was a hurricane or something that pushed the tree over and then it started growing again once it was sideways. – Bonsai design often takes its cue from nature. – Bonsai represents tenacity and endurance, and you have things that have experienced trauma or have experienced stress in the environment. – When stress occurs on a bonsai, like bores in the trunk of Elaine’s live oak, her skillful hands added it to the story. – It’s still enjoyable to look at to me. – And those sort of things – they bring a kind of devastated beauty. – It used to be a forest, and I’d had another tree on the other side.

A deer came along and jerked that tree out, and this is its replacement. – Balance and emphasis comprise two elements of bonsai design. – Bonsai has a front, it has a viewing angle. If you imagine that it’s actually turned sideways, you don’t get as much of that. – Like any plant, success begins at root level. – Sometimes you can get them in department stores where there’s gravel glued on top just for appearance. First thing you do is you take off all that glued gravel because you need water to penetrate through the root system. – Avoid potting soil or compost. Bonsai need sifted large granules for aeration in shallow containers. – The various components of bonsai soil include shale or calcine clay, akadama, which is a Japanese form of clay, sifted pine bark. and frequently red lava. So our finished bonsai soil is very porous, allows for a lot of oxygen to reach the roots, and prevents root rot.

– Elaine reserves a greenhouse for tropicals. – They would normally live outside in warmer climates such as Florida, South Carolina. – Bonsai trees like Oaks Ashton and prison Elms need winter’s cold. Trees that change color in fall before dropping their leaves need that natural cycle. – They stay outside all the time, so when people put them in their house they wonder why they die. – Still, outdoor plants must be protected in winter since roots are restricted. – I put them on the ground in between the benches, and then if it’s going to have a hard freeze I can cover all of them at the same time to keep them protected from the wind. – Periodically we will take them inside, and we’ll show them when we have guests, when we have special events.

– Bonsai don’t use gallons of water, but they do need thorough soaking. – There’re holes in the bottom of every pot, and I think that’s what so many people – mistake in raising bonsai – they don’t water them enough, so the water drains out the holes in the bottom of the pot. – Training takes time. Every few years when roots have filled the pot, they trim back when dormant. Growing in flat pots, rather than deep ones, encourages horizontal roots. – After about three years of being in the bonsai training container that we see here, it’s actually a lot like a cat litter size box, we’re able to begin putting it into an entry level show-grade pot. We can take a tree from a training pot that’s a lot deeper than is really necessary for a finished showpiece and work with it for a few years until we feel like it’s ready to be moved from its training pot into a finished show pot, which is going to be quite a bit shallower. And what this will do is give proportion to the trunk.

– Part of the art form of bonsai is that it’s in a pot, and the pots can be just as artistic as the trees themselves. This one is a handmade pot. – Pruning for design can take years. – When you go to start working on a bonsai it’s like everything else disappears: all the worry, all the fret that you go through in life. – This looks more like a bush instead of a tree. This branch is very long. You will cut it back. And the way you trim it is at the angle of you want it to grow. I want this branch to grow this way and not be longer than all the others. – There’s a Japanese word called “bunzhen”, and it’s basically this long thin line that resembles calligraphy. It’s beautiful. There’s cascade, so it looks like a tree is growing up on a mountain, and it’s cascading down the side. – Anodized aluminum or annealed copper wires help shape. – And that is just there to give the branch direction, to change the angle, maybe give it a little bit of movement, and much like braces on your teeth, you take them off once it is set.

– Many plants qualify for bonsai. The Austen Bonsai Society rescues plants from the wild or starts from nursery pots. – This is a lower pendulum, and it’s a fringe lower pendulum. – This is a Japanese boxwood that a lot of people have in their front yards, and when people re-landscape their plants or re-landscape their yards, sometimes you know these things become throwaways, but to us – years have been spent growing out the trunks, growing out the branches, and we then give it shape and form to – often to mimic trees in nature is the point, but sometimes we’ll do things with an artistic touch that doesn’t even mimic trees in nature. – This is a trident maple that was field grown for about five to seven years, and it’s been topped from about 14 feet down to its current one foot stump, and then a progression in about three years, we might see this evolving into a beginning of a tree that has some structure of branching and some curvature that has been applied by wire.

– To help new growers get started, the Austin Bonsai Society holds meetings and workshops along with its annual show and sale at Zilker Botanical Garden. Elaine founded the Texas Bonsai Exhibit to preserve heritage plants in private gardens until a permanent exhibit is built. – We have these beautiful old trees that people have had and they’ve spent decades working on and then maybe they’re not able to care for them anymore, so we are able to care for them and then put them back out to view – for the public to view later on. – There’s one in the National Arboretum in Washington that is 400 years old. It came through the atomic bomb in Hiroshima, and last year – they never knew exactly whom it belonged to or where it came from, you know, specifically – two boys showed up at the National Arboretum looking for their grandfather’s tree.

That was it. So they found a little bit more of the history of that tree. .