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Air Layer Series Part 1: Trident Maple 2017

Hello and welcome to Appalachian Bonsai! Today’s video is part of an ongoing series to discuss air layers. I hope you enjoy it. Today we’re going to be working on an air layer of this trident maple. I’ve been working on this maple for many years and even tried layering it one time. You can see the scar around the body and the belly here. And I’m trying to do this because, I have a large reverse taper (right there). My first attempts were not very successful So let’s try this again.

What I have here is a box knife and I’m using it because it’s nice and sharp. So just be careful you don’t cut yourself. Cut a section about as wide as the tree is in diameter. The sharp knife is gonna make a clean cut. What I’m doing here is, I’m cutting the cambium layer, which is the softer outer layer of the bark, down to the sapwood. The cambium layer transfers nutrients made by the leaves down to the roots, which help create new roots. The sapwood, which is the inner layer of white wood that you will see in a moment, is what carries nutrients from the roots up to the leaves and branches. By removing this cambium layer, we are removing the ability for the leaves at the top to provide nutrients to the roots at the bottom.

We’re gonna call the nutrients “root juice” for simplicity. The root juice is not getting to those roots at the bottom, but they’re still providing nutrients to the area where it’s cut. What’s it going to do? It’s going to create new roots, and that’s the intention here : To create new roots at the cut. But, we’re not starving the branches and the leaves, because we’re not cutting into the sapwood layer. The roots are still providing nutrients to the top of the tree, so, our tree is able to thrive and produce new roots at the same time. When you’re removing the cambium, make sure you remove ALL of the cambium. The cambium is a pathway from the top to the bottom, and if you leave any of it, the pathway remains open. We must close the process, so remove all the cambium. Scrape it with a knife. I’m using a razor here to finish the process. Then I’m going back and cleaning up my cuts to make sure they’re nice and sharp and crisp and clean.

Take sphagnum moss that has been soaking in water. You can add a root hormone, if you’d like. Squeeze out excess moisture and pack it on the cut. The sphagnum moss is gonna make sure that that cut stays damp and doesn’t dry out. But, it’s also going to provide a medium for which roots can grow in. Wrap the sphagnum moss and the tree with plastic. This plastic will prevent evaporation. It will also make sure that the sphagnum moss remains tight around that cut area. Rubber electrical tape is what I’m using here to ensure that the plastic stays on the tree as well as tight against that trunk.

Finish by wrapping with aluminum foil to protect the new roots from sunlight. So it’s a few months later, and now we’re about to see what our root system looks like. I’m not sure what this is gonna to be here. There is potential I have no roots. Let’s see what we have. As much as I want to cut this down I may have to rewrap it back up again. So, I’m going to do this carefully.

Hush, dog. Hush! It’s the reveal! Oh, man! I can’t tell if that’s sphagnum moss, or if it’s roots. There’s a root right here. I have one root here, and there’s bound to be more, but, they’re not filling up the whole bag. So I’m gonna cover it back up. I’ll check back again. Okay. It’s all done up. Use foil again to protect those new roots from sunlight. Roots like to grow in the dark. That’s why they grow in the ground. Ta-Da! I’ll see you in another month. It’s been a month and a half since we last looked at these roots, and I’ve taken a peek at them over the past weeks, and I wanted to show you what I’ve seen, and what I’ve concluded to do.

There aren’t many roots on this side, but, if you can see this, I do have several roots starting to come through right here and that’s exciting! They’re even starting to poke through the bottom of the bag. I don’t know why it’s not doing as well on the back side. It may be a too damp and maybe too dry. We will see pretty soon. What I’m going to do is take off this layer of plastic, and I’m gonna replace it with this right here. This will be attached to the bottom of the tree, and it will be filled with soil. And that will allow the roots to continue to grow without me disturbing them. So, let’s get in there and see what happened. Hot and humid out today, so it’s not a bad time for me to be exposing the roots.

Yeah, now you can start to see them. Yeah, pretty. Real pretty We even have some root started up here. Oh, I just have to look! Hold on. It’s really wet, and that may be the problem. I see a root or two. There’s a root or two back here. And, I was correct: These are roots right here. Just put that back on and loosen a little bit of that up. It’s good to have it damp but not wet, and I think wet was my problem.

Let’s attach this now What I did is measure the diameter of the tree, mark, the bottom of this container and then made some slits where it would be larger and hold around that trunk. Then I split a section all the way up the side, so that I could open and slide it around the tree. This is not the best design, and there are better ones out there that you can purchase with a hinge on the side. It makes this a little bit easier, but It’s slightly more expensive. I went ahead and drilled some holes, and now we can put this on. I plan on putting that just below where these root tips are, being very careful not to break them. I’m gonna see if I can slide this on. Okay So I got this on, and now I just need to tie it off. It’s not the prettiest thing, I know.

I’m wrapping aluminum wire around the container to hold it together and I’m using little smaller pieces of aluminum wire to hold the main wire in place. As mentioned before, this isn’t the best design, but it still works for this purpose. I’m using my coarse bonsai soil It’s the same soil I used with my other trees. It’s with a little bit more pine bark to give it extra moisture. Then I teased those roots out gently. It took some time, but I got it on there. Then what I did is I fill it with soil I had to brace it up some to keep it to this level. I wanted to make sure that the topsoil was well above where the root cut was. So the root system can grow, and that way everything stays nice and damp. I’m gonna give this a good watering, I’m gonna cover it and some sphagnum moss. That way the sun doesn’t hit it and dry it out too badly. And we’ll see here in another couple of months. Hopefully I’ll have some roots coming out on the sides.

Stay tuned for the next video in this series. Like and subscribe because there is more to come. Thanks for watching! .

HIBISCUS BONSAI Step-1, Grow in Just Three years from Cuttings, Be the Creator, Nov.18

Within coming three years ….. do you want to be a creator of a bonsai like this? Then watch this video tutorial ….. Obviously till the end. Easiest Way to make Hibiscus Bonsai, …. Today I’m going to share with you. Namastey This is Samar … welcomes you to Be The CREATOR Channel To make Hibiscus bonsai in the shortest time …. the first step would be ….. to collect a plant which has …. a thicker trunk. You can take nursery plant, you can make plant through air-layering your self …. or … you can grow plant through cutting propagation. Here I start with cuttings. You must choose a hardwood cutting like this. Hibiscus ….. cuttings roots easily but to propagate hardwood cuttings you have to …. start from early Monsoon I’ve taken 3 cuttings …. these are of Pink variety. This small terracotta pot is …. enough for their rooting Soil I’ll use is … mixture of leaf compost and garden soil … in 2 : 1 ratio. There’s no need of rooting hormone for hibiscus.

It roots naturally very well. Drainage hole must be clear. No waterlog should be there. After drying the top soil …. I’ll water it. Within about 14 to 21 days it roots. And new shoots start sprouting Couple of months … growing them in the same pot I’ve to … transplant them. Best time to repot is late Monsoon. I’ve chosen Pink variety because …. it continuously …. blooms and it’s leaves are … smaller than other varieties. All three cuttings propagated well I’ll grow two of these and … third one, I’ll gift my cousin Let remove them from pot. Well grown root ball. I’ll separate all the three plants. I’ll use this plastic pot to train them for next one year. I arranged 6 drainage hole under. And soil is same … garden soil & leaf compost mixture. A little root trim. this is tropical Hibiscus. In hot climate it blooms regularly. If you are from cold climate then … you should take perennial Hibiscus variety. After potting …. strong watering. After a week under the shade, then I’ll …. keep it under sun again.

on coming February I’ve to work on it again. It has settled in new pot well. Leaves turned to deep green. And blooming regularly too. I’ve crossed the first step to make a Hibiscus bonsai. Second step in next February. The work to do on it then …. also I’ll share with you That’s all for now … see you on next video … till then Goodbye. Thanks for watching. .

75) Summer Pruning of English Oak Quercus robur European Bonsai Trees for Beginners

Good day Youtubers. We’re going to be pruning this high-quality beautiful okaywhich Dean bought a few years in the past. It was once repotted about two years ago, and on the grounds that the repotting, it has been developing tons of branches, very strong, and as one can find, it is filled out very well. We more commonly let the branches grow out fully earlier than we prune again, which more commonly manner we do it a while towards the end of, mid to the end of summer depending on how they are. The very well start cleaving out so much later than the other native deciduous bushes any way so there may be no longer quite so much that you are able to do earlier than that. We cut away the lead department leaving 2 – three lateral shoots on the branch and perpetually if there are not any lateral shoots, or alternatively if there aren’t any lateral shoots, then I reduce to 3 leaf nodes on that exact department on this year’s progress.<br><br> It usually then starts sprouting the next year really generally. But when you feed good during the Spring months, mid Spring onwards, you will have tons of this huge progress and behind it, you can start forming plenty of lateral shoots which is what we purpose to strengthen due to the fact the lateral shoots grow small and first-class and support with the ramification of the tree and very well are notoriously intricate to ramify. But i assume the secret’s to let the branches lengthen completely due to the fact that that helps develop a pleasant root constitution within the pot which, after pruning, tends to send out plenty of lateral shoots on the grounds that the roots were developed good and so they’re full of vigour so they can push out these new shoots.<br><br> i am hoping you loved gazing the very wellbeing pruned. Thank you for gazing. Should you just like the video, please share and like, and also subscribe for the reason that we add movies every week. Thanks for staring at. .

91ème Kokufu Bonsai Ten (2017) 🇫🇷 🇬🇧 🇯🇵 🌲🌸 (1/2)

Hello YouTube is Monsieur Bonsai! Welcome to the 91th variation of Kokufu Bonsai Ten. This exhibition takes place every 12 months the Tokyo Metropolitan art Museum in February it hosts a choice of the best bonsai from Japan. Given that 1934, this distinctive moment is an opportunity come admire exceptional bushes. Separated into 2 components, you’re going to to find in this video from my private decision within the 180 bonsais offered from four to eight February 2017. The 2nd a part of the occasion is held from 10 to thirteen February and can be an opportunity for a second video. Every 12 months, a jury awards prizes to chosen few. The "worthy Award" rewards a tree which is pricey to the heritage in sort, its essence or its history. The "Kokufu Award" is the choice of jury for this year. And the "distinctive Award" honors a bonsai … Targeted! Of direction there are numerous, many Juniperus Chinensis in the selection i have deliberately chosen to present other species at the rate of those timber which might be beautiful but are very well represented in other places.<br><br>We reach 1/2 of the exhibition. Mr. Jiro Fukuda, Chairman of the japanese organization of bonsai, did me the honour of answer some questions "can you tell us in just a few words about the exhibition? " I believe that the level at Kokufu Bonsai Ten is always very high however, this yr it’s principally excessive I think that the Kokufu ten is among the rare exhibition where we’ve got a contest, awards and a jury identifying bushes throughout this 91th variation, we acquired 390 applicants and we needed to disqualify 38 of them. This is why you have right here the first-rate of the first-rate each year there are a enormous number of bonsai exhibition in Japan , but I consider that Kokufu-Ten is truly individual : thanks ! There are quite a lot of bonsai amateurs on the earth, do you might have a message for them ? Continue to like and do bonsai! One character can speak about bonsai and unfold the phrase to buddies, household, and even to only a different character. I believe it is a formidable hobby, please revel in and spread it into the world! At the corner of the exhibition I met grasp Suzuki who talks in regards to the the event and the tree he labored.<br><br>in these days at the 91th Kokufu Ten, there are more than 300 bonsais exposed for their total high-quality: measurement, pot, influence. This yr, this Chaenomeles Japonica used to be awarded with the "Kokufu Award" How is it composed? It is been worked out in the course of a hundred years, and placed in this ultimate pot. It stands on a desk which is a masterpiece through Adachi Shozan. So total it’s fantastic ! "What made you start Bonsai?" My father used to be very fascinated about Bonsai and i grew up in a good environment which used to be good to observe this artwork. Then in an effort to specialize myself, I went at 18 right into a coaching, during 6 years. It grew to become my job. Do you could have a message to all bonsai passionate folks around the world? Bonsai are developping in a pot, they usually want water. But that’s not all. If you do not communicate to them, they die.<br><br>Bonsais want affection and a high-quality environment. Whilst you handle your bonsai, it must aid you to calm down and become calmer. In a better position as a way to all of you, please proceed to Bonsai! The top of the exhibition offers smaller trees As we have noticeable in my previous video on the Shohin Exhibition the primary a part of this 91th edition comes to a close with close to one hundred eighty bonsais I thank exceptionally the japanese Bonsai association which authorized me to take these pix and videos I invite you to accumulate the exhibition book which has all of the professional pictures of this version. I hope you enjoyed this selection. Suppose free to love the video, share and subscribe to my channel to not leave out the following one! The following video of the 2d part of Kokufu Bonsai Ten will arrive subsequent week.<br><br>thank you and à bientôt ! .

What are the Six Types of Bonsai?

Klon Burgera Bonsai Tree

Growing a bonsai tree is very much different than say growing a maple tree in your backyard. With the maple tree, you plant, feed and water the tree. And other than an occasional pruning to remove dead or damaged branches, you simply sit back and let nature take over. However with a bonsai, from day one you are growing a specimen with a defined “look” in mind. You will prune and train the tree to eventually achieve this look. Nature may grow the tree, but you determine its final appearance.

While the final appearance of the tree is part of the growers interpretation, there are five or six defined styles that your bonsai will fall into. Within the first five classifications you will find the “Formal Upright” bonsai, the “Informal Upright, the ” Slanting” bonsai, the “Cascade” and the “Semi Cascade” bonsai. As the names of the first two classifications elude to, trees grown in this style are trained to grow in a straight up right direction. The “Slanting” bonsai is one in which the tree angles either right or left. In the cascade style(s), the tree is pruned and trained to resemble a cascading waterfall.

Klon Burgera Bonsai Tree

Klon Burgera Bonsai Tree

The sixth style of the bonsai is known as “Windswept”. With this style the bonsai is trained to appear as it is being constantly blown by the wind. The inclusion of the windswept style into the classifications is a cause of some controversy amongst growers and traditionalist. Because of the visual interest that this style can generate, we felt it was important to include it in a discussion of the styles of bonsai trees.

Your choice of style will be made early in the life of the bonsai. The actual specimen chosen by you can be governed by the style choice. Also your choice of design and color of the pot will also be influenced by the style of bonsai you choose to grow.

To help you decide which style of bonsai best suits your intended design, let’s take a closer look at each of the styles. Each of these styles has some specific guidelines for that particular style. But remember these are guidelines only. One of the more enjoyable parts of the bonsai experience is to create that one of a kind specimen.

Formal Upright Bonsai Tree

The formal upright is the basis of other bonsai styles. It is a single trunk specimen tree that is conical in shape. With this style of bonsai the length of the branches diminish the closer to the apex of the tree they are.

Formal Upright Bonsai Tree

Formal Upright Bonsai Tree

One of the hallmarks of the Formal Upright is the position of the first branch. This first branch should appear at 1/3rd of the height of the trunk, it should also be pointed toward the front of the tree. The second branch should also be trained to angle toward the front of the tree. A third branch should extend out of the back of the trunk. This third branch should occur at an angle that is half way between the first and second branches. Subsequent branches should follow this pattern to the apex of the tree. The final appearance of the tree should approximate a triangle.

When planting a Formal Upright Bonsai, do not center the plant in pot. This placement is for visual reasons only. Formal Upright bonsai appear best when potted in an oval or rectangular pot. Avoid square pots as this affects the appearance of the tree.

The Formal Upright is one of the easiest forms to create. recommended plants that are well suited for the Formal Upright Bonsai are pines, Maples, junipers and larches. It is recommended that you avoid fruit bearing trees for the formal upright style. The formal upright bonsai is total symmetry.

The Informal Upright Bonsai is a single trunk specimen planted in a pot, just as the Formal Upright Bonsai is. The placement or location of the branches as they emanate from the trunk follow the same procedural logic as in the Formal Upright. Beyond these two stipulations, the Informal upright Bonsai and the Formal Upright are two very different plants. With the Informal Upright Bonsai the trunk of the tree is not necessarily straight, in fact it may bend or twist several times before it reaches its apex. A properly trained Informal Upright Bonsai will bend toward the front or display side of the tree as it reaches its apex.

The branches in an informal Upright Bonsai appear to be fuller than with the Formal style, as seen in a Fukien Tea Upright Bonsai. There is less symmetry with the informal Upright than one would find with the Formal Upright. Making the informal Upright style a better choice for a specimen selected to depict a more desolate setting.

As with the Formal Upright, good choices for the Informal Upright Bonsai would include pine, maples and Junipers. Avoid fruit bearing trees for this design. Informal Upright Bonsai will appear best when planted in either an oval or rectangular pot.

When potting an Informal Upright Bonsai, plant it off center in your pot. If your selected plant does not have an significant bent or slant, simply adjust the angle of the root ball when you plant the specimen. In a visit to your local nursery you should be able to fins several trees that already have a natural bend or twist to the trucks, making them ideal selections for this style of bonsai.

The slanting Bonsai tree has a very steep or acute angle compared to the previous two styles discussed. Whereas in the upright styles the trunk of the tree grows vertically, the trunk of the slanted tree leans drastically in one direction. The angle that the tree grows in ranges from 60 -80 degrees.

Slanted bonsai trees are often found in nature where the tree had to bend in one direction to locate the sun, or where prevailing winds constantly forced the tree into one direction. The slanted Bonsai is a miniature version of this same tree.

There are very few rules or guidelines regarding the slanted Bonsai. Primarily the first branch must spread in the opposite direction of the slant. The other guideline is that the top of the tree should point toward the front or face of the tree.

This style of bonsai is compromise between the Upright style and the cascade style. One important differentiations between the slanting Bonsai and the Cascading Bonsai is that the growth of the tree occurs above the root line in the slanted, whereas the grow occurs below the root line in the cascade styles.

With the exception of the fruit bearing trees, almost any other tree could be trained in this style.

Within the cascade style of bonsai plants there are two classifications, the “Cascade Bonsai” and the “Semi Cascade Bonsai”. These trees are trained so that the trunk of the tree will begin to grow straight up, and then turn drastically down toward the soil of the tree. The distinction between the Cascade and the Semi Cascade is the direction that the growth occurs in. With the Cascade style the tree will continue to grow vertically toward earth, whereas the semi cascade will eventually begin to grow horizontally. This horizontal growth will always happen below the base of the tree.

In both styles the main portion of the trees growth will occur below the base of the tree. This growth will extend down beyond the bottom of the pot that contains the Cascade bonsai. For this reason, Cascade Bonsai are normally placed upon either a high table or a pedestal.

A good selection for either of these styles would be the prostrate junipers, chrysanthemums, wisteria, willows and star jasmine. One would not select a tree that naturally is a tall growth specimen for styling as a cascade bonsai. These trees display best when planted in either in a round or hexagonal pot. The pot for the cascading Bonsai should always be much taller then they are wide. As with most other bonsai trees, this style displays best when planted off center.

Creating a cascade or a semi cascade bonsai is a very time consuming endeavor.

Windswept Bonsai Tree

The final classification of styles for the bonsai tree is known as the “Windswept Bonsai”. What differentiates this style from the others is the visual harshness of the presentation. As the name implies, the “Windswept Bonsai” has the appearance of a tree grown in extremely harsh conditions, where winds or other environmental conditions have forced growth on just one side of the tree, typically away from the wind. With this style of bonsai, everything, trunk, branches and leaves all will face in only one direction.

The windswept bonsai is not to be confused with the slanted bonsai. Both styles will have a bent or angled trunk, however with the slanted, the branches and foliage can return back toward the trunk. On a windswept bonsai, there is no reversal of direction.

A windswept Bonsai normally will have a stunted or weathered appearance. There will be little if any adornment in the pot. Remember that the goal is to create a presentation that reflects the harshest of conditions. This tree is normally planted in an oval pot, with the tree itself planted toward one edge of the pot. The growth will occur back toward the center of the pot. To help define the rugged conditions, you may elect to add rocks to the presentation. Remember to keep the rocks within the proper scale of the tree. When found in nature these trees are very matured large trees, so don’t diminish their size with too large of rocks.

Windswept bonsai are normally cultivated from evergreens. The use of deciduous trees is not recommended for this style of bonsai. While the deciduous could be trained in the windswept style, the fact that their leaves grow in all directions would make the visual affect less convincing.

Windswept Bonsai Tree

Windswept Bonsai Tree

Windswept Bonsai are normally potted in simple, unadorned pots. Use of glazed or brightly colored pots would detract from the overall presentation.

If one were to search for a single word to describe the appearance that the “Windswept Bonsai” creates, that single word would be “Survivor”. While this style may not be as visually fulfilling, it is definitely one of the most dramatic styles.

Windswept Bonsai Tree at the goal is to create a presentation that reflects the harshest of conditions. This tree is normally planted in an oval pot, with the tree itself planted toward one edge of the pot. The growth will occur back toward the center of the pot. To help define the rugged conditions, you may elect to add rocks to the presentation. Remember to keep the rocks within the proper scale of the tree. When found in nature these trees are very matured large trees, so don’t diminish their size with too large of rocks.

Bonsai Care and Feeding

The very word “bonsai” conjures so many thoughts to many people. Almost a warrior sound yet in reality the word bonsai implies a miniature tree.

Where Bonsai Started.

Most of us associate bonsai with the Japanese. Apparently the art of bonsai care and development as we know it today originated in China and was known as Pensai in China. Pensai as it was known has been traced back to around 600 a.d. and subsequently made it’s way to Japan

Bonsai maple

Bonsai maple

Bonsai maple

The word “Bonsai” comprises of two parts “bonsai” meaning tray and “sai” meaning plant, which when literally translated equates to “tray plant”. We are so emphatic to ensure that we correctly call bonsai trees when part of the derivation of the word does in fact mean plant.

In the care of bonsai trees we”ll take a few clear topics:-

o Watering bonsai
o Light and Humidity for my bonsai tree
o Bonsai Feeding

How frequently to water a Bonsai?

The first question most budding bonsai carers ask is “How often should I water a bonsai tree?” and the answer depends on many different factors. Watering and caring for a bonsai tree is a constant balance between too much and too little.

Variables to consider are when caring for your bonsai tree are:-

o The type of bonsai tree.
o The time of year is it winter, summer, spring or autumn (fall).
o The location of the bonsai tree within your house or garden.
o The location of your property i.e. Alaska or Arizona.

How should I water a bonsai tree?

The “best” way to water is to first wet the soil a little, this will improve the soil’s ability to take in or absorb a larger volume of water, and then you should water thoroughly until the soil is saturated. Make certain that the entire soil mass gets wet – every time – you water and wait for the excess to run out of the drainage holes to be sure.

When should I water a Bonsai tree?

The “best” time to water is probably early in the morning, before the bonsai tree begins its day of growing activities. Also take a look during the day if the bonsai tree located in a particularly hot and dry place. Bonsai trees do not grow when the soil is too wet and they do not grow when the soil is too dry. A bonsai tree takes in water and nutrients during the “in between” periods.

Work out a sensible watering schedule that is realistic and achievable and try and maintain a regular caring plan for your bonsai tree.

What kind of water should I use to water a bonsai tree?

Water your a bonsai with room temperature tap water. If the water is too hot or too cold it may shock the tree”s roots. If you have the ability, facility and time to collect rain to water” great.

Light and Humidity for my bonsai tree.

How much light does a bonsai require?

Providing the correct amount of light for your bonsai is crucial to keeping it healthy. However, there are no simple answers as to how much light bonsai trees in general “require”. Light requirements are specific to the type of tree and are further dependent upon specific variations in the location they are kept – namely your home. It is a good idea to speak to your local bonsai supplier or a fellow bonsai enthusiast that has experience growing bonsai in a setting very similar to your own.

What kind of light is best?

Bonsai Moon

Bonsai Moon

Bonsai Moon

Sunlight is by far the best type of light for bonsai trees and most other living creatures on earth. As such, the brightest window in your home is arguably the best spot for your indoor bonsai trees. However, the brightest window in your home may be located next to the fireplace. So, in a case like this you need to find an alternative and more practical location and use some type of artificial lighting system.

What kind of artificial light should you provide?

A grow light and timer are a simple solution for providing additional light. Set your timer for 12 to 16 hours of supplemental lighting and position your bonsai within 1 to 4 inches of your light source.
Why is humidity important for bonsai?

Although indoor bonsai trees slow their growth in winter and do not need as much water, they still do require sufficient humidity. Humidity helps to reduce water loss through the processes of transpiration. Transpiration will have a negative effect on your bonsai’s ability to retain water and remain healthy.

How can I improve humidity for my bonsai tree?

The sometimes dry climate of a home or apartment can be altered to benefit your bonsai tree. You can place your bonsai on a “humidity tray” filled with decorative pebbles, that should be kept wet at all times, this will help increase humidity levels. Another solution is regular misting. Misting or spraying is the most common humidifying method. It has the additional benefit of removing dust from your bonsai, which blocks sunlight and interferes with the exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide. Be sure to mist using room temperature water.

What else is helpful to prevent dry conditions?

Keep your indoor bonsai trees away from draughty doors or windows and from heat sources such as vents, radiators, or fireplaces.

Bonsai Feeding

Why Do Bonsai Need Fertilizer?

The bonsai environment is “artificial” and therefore requires our intervention, help and care in order to maintain the health and development of the bonsai tree. The simplest way to achieve a healthy bonsai tree in addition to frequent watering is a frequent dose of fertilizer to the soil.

LifeSize Bonsai

LifeSize Bonsai

LifeSize Bonsai

What type of fertilizer to use?

Use a balanced fertilizer to feed your bonsai tree – typically 20-20-20, at 25% strength, every other week. The numbers 20-20-20 are the percentage, by weight, of the N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contained in that fertiliser. These elements will enhance the growth of your bonsai tree.

What Does N-P-K Stand For & What Does It Do?

o N – Nitrogen is responsible for the size and amount of new growth and, to some extent, the green colour of the leaves. Nitrogen is required for cell division and, also, protein manufacturing.
o P – Phosphorus is also necessary for cell division and is associated with good root growth and flowering.
o K – Potassium activates cell enzymes and is related with overall healthy cell activity.

Bonsai Fertiliser Notes

1. Always water your bonsai thoroughly before fertilizing and never use fertilizer on a dry tree.
2. Never fertilize a sick tree, as fertilizer is not medicine.
3. If you are not sure how much fertilizer to use, follow the directions on the label and never use more than recommended.
4. Fertilizer is a good thing, but too much is a bad thing.

Peter Williams has his own website with many useful tips & hints, resources and links about bonsai care [http://www.bonsai-care.biz] and how to look after your bonsai tree Some nice pictures too!

Tips, Tricks & Techniques For Cultivaating Yopur Bonsai

Bonsai, like with any art form, has certain techniques applied to create the masterpiece. Painters use paintbrushes, composers use paper, pen, and musical instruments; sculptors use a variety of tools. Bonsai artist also use a variety of tools, their primary tools being their hands, time and patience.

Bonsai has a variety of techniques applied to this art such as leaf trimming, pruning, wiring, clamping, grafting, defoliation, and deadwood to name a few. Each of these techniques requires bonsai tools especially for that purpose.

 

Tree Story – A Maple Campestre

Tree Story – A Maple Campestre

Tree Story – A Maple Campestre

In leaf trimming, a bonsai artist does precision removal of leaves or needles from the bonsai plant or tree. In doing so, it aids in developing the mature look sought after in the bonsai piece. The leaf trimmer is specifically designed for leaf removal for quick clean cuts that make trimming your bonsai plant/tree quick and safe for your Bonsai. Dull cuts leave ragged edges that may result in slower healing. Tweezers work great for removing dead leaves as well as needles, insects and weeds in the container. Evergreen variety bonsai need needles that grow on the trunk or below the branches removed. By removing needles or new bud growth, the artist can produce budding on the trunk adding character to the bonsai. Leaf trimming and pruning are the two most frequent techniques used with bonsai creation.

Pruning involves the removal of branches, roots, and trunk growth. It is extremely important to know the ins and outs of pruning a bonsai because one wrong cut can kill or weaken a bonsai. Sharp pruning shears are essential for clean cuts. Pruning, like leaf removal is done frequently throughout the creation of the bonsai. Concave cutters are the most common bonsai tool used in pruning of branches, roots, and trunk growth. Their angled cutting edge make for easy and clean cut removal of unwanted growth on your bonsai. They come in various sizes but standard is 8 inches. Spherical concave cutters are the sister to the concave cutters with the only difference being a rounded cutting edge that is designed to give more precise growth removal as well as give the artist the ability to create hallow wounds in the trunk of the bonsai that after healing appears flat giving the bonsai a more matured look. Shears, the last of the pruning tools have short blades with long handles. Much like the shears one would use on a hedge but in a Bonsai size, they give the artist the ability to prune the bonsai to shape and get into areas where the concave may not be able to reach. In order to maintain the bonsai shape and form, pruning must be maintained. The amount of time and frequency in which you will have to prune will be dependent upon the type of plant or tree used.

Wiring is done to form the tree of plants branches in their desired form. It works as a support and a map in which the plant/tree will conform. Copper and aluminum wire is used when wiring branches or trunks of the bonsai. The wire is left in place up to nine months or until the branch hardens up. Wires are also used to form shapes with young branches that are still flexible or to connect them to the bonsai pot. Not all branches take to wiring due to their lack of flexibility. These branches are shaped and formed into the desired positions through pruning. Wiring is most often done in the springtime when there is new growth and branches are more flexible. When wiring, you want to take extra precaution not to brake the branches or bark by being to forceful. Keeping the wire firm and at intricate locations (e.g. bends, crossovers) is prudent in receiving the goal you are reaching. The most common tool used with wiring your bonsai is the wire cutters. A bonsai artist uses the wire cutters to not only cut the wire but often times shaping the end of wire tightly around the branches. The Bonsai wire cutters have a rounded nose on them, which enables the artist to get in close to the branch and not harm the bark. Branch benders are used in place of the wire when branches are not flexible enough to wire in desired positions.

 

Ginseng Ficus Bonsai pair

Ginseng Ficus Bonsai pair

Ginseng Ficus Bonsai pair

Clamping is yet another technique used by bonsai artist in the forming of branches and trunks that present stiffer wood. Most commonly used are the screw-based clamps that enable the artist to put pressure on branch or trunk increasing over a period time to achieve desired results.

Grafting is done to join two plants or trees together to give the appearance as a singular bonsai. Another common reason behind grafting is that some plant root systems alone in bonsai art are not suitable to stand on their own; with combining the two root systems the artist gains better ability to control size. Common tools used in grafting are grafting and budding knives. It is important for the artist to use sharp knives as to not leave ragged wounds that can cause harm to the bonsai. Tying and wrapping materials are used to hold scissions and stock together tightly as well as prevent callus from forming. Commonly used tying and wrapping materials are tape, plastic, raffia, rubber budding strips and twine.

Defoliation is the practice of total leaf removal by partially clipping along the petiole (stem) of the leaf, which will later dry up and fall off. This forces a new crop of smaller leaves adding to the esthetics of dwarfing. This short term dwarfing of the leaves can only be done at most every other year due to the weakening effects it has on the tree. Not all plant/trees can survive defoliation. Sharp bonsai scissors are the most common tool used for this technique.

Deadwooding is a technique used to give the appearance of matured bark in an otherwise young tree. There are two different styles of deadwooding; the jin used when bark is stripped entirely off a branch, and the shari technique is used when trying to give the impression of scarring on a branch or trunk. Other techniques are done to give the appearance of a raised grain in a trunk or a bleaching of the trunk using a lime-sulfur compound.

 

Shade is useful when first starting a pot. The trick is to diminish the sun, while the plant is getting established. I use white bamboo sheets. they seem to provide just the right amout of light for getting them started. I have an old king bamboo sheet that I have been cutting pieces out of for years

There are many other techniques used in bonsai art and a variety of different tools to achieve the effect of the technique.

Bamboo Bonsai

I saw a thread a couple of years back regarding bamboo bonsai and I saw the picture They were awesome! I want to try it now. Has anyone on this thread tried the bamboo bonsai over the past couple of years and have been sucessful? Care to post some pics? The pic of the bonsai black bamboo was truly beautiful!

plumeriafl:

This isn’t my photo. I saved it a while back from some website. Not exactly bonsai, but it has some of the bonsai appeal. This is Bambusa vulgaris “Wamin”

Bambusa vulgaris “Wamin

Bambusa vulgaris “Wamin

cmontross:

I am not into bonsai, though I have been keeping a Ph. n. Henon in a pint container for over a year and will continue to occassionally put small rhizome divisions into pot to attempt to establish. At least I claim I am not into bonsai although I am trying to bonsai bamboo, without putting any true effort into it.
Chris

While not a bonsai, I found some bamboo sheets at: http;//bambooforlife.com/bamboo-sheets. I highly recommend them for after you’ve toiled in the garden, and worked the soil.

 

butterfly4u(Aiken, SC zone 8):

Chris,
Sounds like indirectly you are bonsiaing,(is that a word?)
a Ph. N Henon.
I am growing Buddah’s from seed and now I am definately going to try to bonsai it. Buddah’s would look great as a bonsai.
I have some Ph. Nigra but would have to wait til it shoots,(after this winter, if it shoots)to see if I can try that also.
I would think bamboo would be difficult to bonsai due to it’s fast growth rate, but oh it is so beautiful in those bonsai pics.
Good Luck.

cmontross:

Dwarf Bamboo

Dwarf Bamboo

Keeping it in a small pot seems to be doing the trick so far. Time will tell. Sizing up of bamboo is an opportunity issue. Room to grow, Room to get big. I haven’t even considered root trimming at this point, but expect after this summer it probably will be.
Chris

 

I do some bonsai. Mostly japanese maples, but some bamboo also. I find dwarf bamboo the best to use. Link below is a pic. of one I made. I got my bamboo from Jungle Bamboo and Palms, in Cotati, Ca. They have healthy plants and quite a variety. I recommend them. Here is a link that might be useful: